🔧 MTC 50026 Kawasaki 57001 1429 238 5101 PCP 10 23 0820 Clutch Puller Tool Review

Did the job! I also abused something. The hit wouldn't work. Gave a few hammer hits, then a 2 foot breaker and a few more hammer hits, then another breaker and finally the clutch popped out. 2005 Brute Force 750

This tool saves time and effort when changing belts. I had a new belt installed in less than 30 minutes. As with many projects, the first time can be a learning experience. This remedy worked well. For the price unbeatable.

I used this item yesterday to pull 2 clutches on the fj400d, motor and rear diff clutch worked like clockwork, don't use a shock, only chrome ratchet recommended, 3/8 more length and 2ft Pair locks work perfectly

Extended Driven Clutch for Kawasaki 610 Mule. Worked great. The clutch wasn't too tight so not really a challenge. I've pulled clutches on diesel mules [drive] with a real Kawasaki puller. I had to use a 4ft pipe and really lean into it. I don't know if this puller is enough for that.

Read reviews of other pullers that were cheaper and had problems with these pullers breaking in the clutch. For only a few bucks I bought this to get rid of hours of headaches when this happened to me. Worked perfectly! I changed the belt and rode for 15 minutes, what a relief. Happy I bought this!

Bought a used Brute Force 750. The belt light came on shortly after changing the signal belt. I bought an OEM and it was very tight. There's no way to roll it over the clutch wheel without stretching it. YouTubed and found this tool. Same brand, high quality. It takes a striking tool to pop out, but he immediately pulled the clutch. There are also no markings on the instrument. Highly recommended.

After hand threading the coupler into the coupler and squeezing with the breaker I felt the threads stretch and thought they might have reached the end strands before it comes to the end. So I pulled it out and counted the threads, found that I hit the end (as it should) at 17 threads out of 25 and the clutch was very difficult to break. I couldn't have done it without this tool.

Fits and works perfectly. Don't listen to YouTube videos that say you don't need a puller. Save yourself the hassle and spend $20 on this puller when tightening the belt to make the engine brake. Tighten the puller until the primary clutch "pops out" and clears the motor shaft. Note: You must prevent the primary sleeve from rotating with a tube or rod. Do not insert between the clutch knobs. Use a different hole in the shaft

This puller worked where others failed. This tool from MTC successfully removed the prime mover on our Kawasaki 4010 4x4 Diesel Trans. We originally used an ATV Works zinc dichromate coated puller which was made from a softer steel which deformed (tip bent) when we attempted to remove the Kawasaki Remove Drive Converter Primary Drive/Primary Clutch Puller Tool, replaces OEM 57001-1429 (also fits Suzuki). and arctic cat). The ATV Works tool has a nice laser cut "ATV Works" marker, but the steel…