🔥 Ford Cylinder Ignitor - PerTronix 1281 Review

Remove the condenser and tabs, slide the plastic over the tabs of the shaft holder. Coil, put on the rotor, cover and wires. Runs great runs much better

My husband installed it on his 68 F-100 despite having failed two previous Petronix igniters on the same truck. One was guaranteed by Petronix, the other expired after about 12 months. He says the truck starts easier and runs better with Petronix, but he's not sure about the quality after two retirements.

Purchased Mustang '73 with original points. Paste this as directed, press the button, it launched and worked great. There is no need to "adjust" the gap. The instructions are very easy to follow. There are also good YouTube videos showing the installation. Now I don't have to worry about setting points, delays, etc. This should take forever.

Years ago I replaced the contacts and capacitor on my 1958 Ford 352 FE with a module made by Crane Cams. This worked fine, but there was a rather complicated conversion with the default allocator. I had ignition problems and traced it back to the module. This time I chose Pertronix 1281. Wow! So easy! And that starts with the first turn of the key! I love it.

is several months. works great as far as I can tell. is on my '68 Ford Ranchero with a 302. Had to rebuild the carburetor and had a lot of problems with it. But I also needed a new distributor, so I switched to this electronic ignition. I'm not a mechanic but very fast and works well as far as I can tell after 4 months. I will say that the price on Amazon beats any other place I've looked and the fast shipping.

Very happy with this purchase! Easy installation on a 1971 F-250. Stock 360 and distributors. I got behind the dash, cut the resistance wire and screwed in a good spare wire. The pink wire is the ballast/resistance wire for standard applications. You can connect, but the coil is powered by 9-10 volts. After trimming I was left with about 2 inches of original and good copper from there to the coil which gave me 13-14 volts.

I have a 1974 F750 with a 391. I was concerned the unit I was sent would not fit. The technology was very helpful in making sure it was right for the application. When I went to install it was easier than swapping the points. It uses a standard rotor and cap. Started immediately and works much better. There is a high energy ignition, but for my truck it was simple, economical, reliable and worked much better than the standard ignition. It's five stars for me, which is rare.

I wanted to set the points in my 1965 Ford Mustang but decided to give this a try rather than buying a deceleration meter. Some people have reported that they could just hook it up to the factory wiring (pink resistance wire) connected to the + side of the coil. I tried that but it didn't work properly for me as there were many errors. To test the difference, I took an alligator clip, connected it to the positive terminal of a 12V battery and started the car. It ran much smoother and idled much

Pertronix 1281 igniter blew out the moment I turned the key in the ignition. I double checked my work when I installed it and the instructions were pretty basic. I sent the igniter back to Pertronix and they refused to honor the warranty because I installed it incorrectly or left the ignition key on for too long. Neither happened. They said I needed to get an RMA number from them before I sent them the detonator, but nowhere in the product instructions that came with the detonator does it say…