This looks like a great product but I was unable to use it after installing it. I have two microjig gripper push blocks which I really like so I think the company makes great products and this one seems well thought out too. My mistake rendered it useless, so I figured I'd stop others from making the same mistake. First, it's the width of the cut. I can't remember buying a "fancy" thin blade 10 years ago. I just went to one of the big stores and grabbed one off the shelf. It turns out that many blades of large boxes have a thin cut. So measure the width of the cut. Thin - 3/32 inch. I tried grinding the insert down to 3/32" but the pins are 7/64" so I thinned the pins and didn't think it was a good idea. The second mistake was distance. between the back of the blade and the end of the insert. My saw had a thin .093 steel needle plate that sits on a 1/8" edge. I made the ZCI using sheet of lexan laminated to 1/2" thick plywood so the actual clearance was 1/8" smaller than the 2" I measured from the top of the saw. With the splitter set back as far as it could go, the blade only went up 1 3/4 inches before biting the front pin in half. It's not a big problem because I don't usually try to bust my butt. it's over 1 1/2 inches thick because the saw isn't powerful enough. The instructions say you can shorten the pins to accommodate the obstruction, so next time I'll move the splitter all the way to the back of the ZCI and shorten the back. Pin on the thickness of Lexan. Incidentally, installing a splitter at a height less than the full blade requires trial and error (or very careful measurements). You can't follow the directions until you figure out that the full height of the blade is only 1 3/4 inches compared to when fully extended. In the meantime, I'll try the metal pro set (thin kerf!) The metal pro splitters are already front to back and only have two pins, so I should be able to slip one of those behind the blade and to get the full height of the blade.
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