First of all, I really like the look of the switch. I also like the fact that it allows true 4K rendering at 60Hz. I bought two of these animals based on the reviews and specs and because they are hard to come by due to availability. Having two of these allowed me to run some basic tests to ensure that the problems I was initially having weren't really due to faulty hardware. Here's what I found. When you are about to set up your components, MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS POWERED OFF AND DISCONNECTED! When I say everything, I mean everything. Accessories, switches, TVs, everything. It might not be practical, but you're better off literally unplugging everything before connecting ANY HDMI cables. The photos show that I have an Xbox One X and a Sony PS4 as the only two connected to a SONY 40" 4k curved monitor. Initially I thought consoles would work fine in "Power Rest" mode. After connecting my HDMI cables, I connected the Switch ONE to power and booted the Xbox. uuuu! Let's boot up the PS4 now! This is where the madness started. aud file from Input1 (Xbox) and try to jump to Input2 (Playstation). It freezes, then tries to go back to Xbox, everything is fine for a few seconds, then repeats that annoying habit of trying to go back to PS (which is in power sleep mode). After the PS gave a "Keep Wake/Connected" pulse through the HDMI port, I unplugged the PS (just unplugged the HDMI cable from the Input2 port) and the Xbox was able to function without issue. Every time I plugged the PS back into the Switch ONE (it doesn't matter which input port) showed the same behavior. ff Xbox, try to go to PS, back to Xbox. Rinse, rinse, repeat. I was able to get the Switch ONE to work by unplugging EVERY component (running some other tests that I won't go into with an Apple TV here) and unplugging the Switch's power and power cords from the consoles. I connected all my HDMI cables, ONLY turned on the switch. Then I plugged in the Xbox and turned it on, no problem. Then I plugged in the PS and turned it on, voila! It was still flickering. I know. I was hoping this would also help. For this particular switch I had to hold down the SWITCH button for 8 seconds as instructed by Mfg. to disable automatic switching. After that you can see that input 1 is blue, input 2 is RED and I have stability even with both consoles on regardless of "power status". Did I mention I did some testing with two switches? After making sure I had the same behavior on both switches (initially), I tried just turning everything off and plugging everything into the TWO switch. Switch two on, Xbox on, then PS on. Oddly, the Switch TWO was able to figure out how to fix the issue and didn't "flash". I did NOT have to hold down the SWITCH button for 8 seconds. at the second switch. Both switches are not automatically recognized and toggled. I believe this is the best you will get if you have connected Apple or SONY products to this switch. You're stuck with the remote control. Which isn't too bad, as you can see in Fig 4 I hold mine right over the Xbox and when I'm ready to get banned on PS I just grab the remote and press the Input2 button. BUP! Even if both consoles are on, they switch instantly, no problem, no blinking, no drama for mom. Hope this helps anyone having trouble starting this switch for the first time! I was able to get both to work with SONY, Xbox, PC and Apple products connected. I just don't like automatic switching. That's why it got 4 instead of 5 stars. To be honest I would give it a 4.9 if I could because the picture quality is perfect!
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