Review on Improved SEO: Rite Lite LPL623WRC LED Pivot & Swivel Puck Light by Emily Baker

My wife bought two of these cabinets in late 2015. We had just renovated our showcases and she wanted two of the showcases to be illuminated. These two cabinets were new (the rest has been repainted so no wiring can be added). But adding lights to the two new ones was still an afterthought. So she bought these battery powered puck lights with a remote switch. They worked great. However, we soon found that after a few days of use, they began to fade. These lights use a lot of battery, although you would expect LEDs to use very little. And $3 for 3 AAA batteries for two lightbulbs adds up quickly. Luckily I had a socket in the middle cupboard for the built-in microwave underneath. And the installer built an empty space above it and two showcases on the sides. Well I had this situation and so I decided to buy a 4.5v transformer to power the pucks. I was able to connect a 4.5v wire to each bulb. Now they work great. Why stick with them instead of just buying 12 volt washing machines? I couldn't find anything with a remote switch. Converting them from batteries to a transformer seemed a little tricky to me. I will describe in detail what I have done for those who choose to follow this path. Drill a hole in the back cover for the wire. Because the washer mounts flush with the top of the cabinet, the hole in the washer cover must line up with the hole in the cabinet ceiling. I used a screw to hold the washer (not paste) so the hole for the wires needs to be in the right place to use this screw. (Tip: only mount the back cover to the cabinet ceiling, then drill both the cover and case to the top ceiling.) For my first attempt, I needed to find a way to connect the wires to the battery pressure points. I thought about soldering but decided on the next one. I covered two external batteries with plastic. Then I placed the ends of the wires where the batteries end. It made the connection. The plastic was a precaution to avoid battery leakage problems. It was December 2015. Fast forward to today, September 2017. A light started to fail after about a year. It just wasn't that bright and flickered at times. I recently took it apart and indeed a battery leaked and went through the plastic causing resistance in the connection. I bought two more lights and wired them differently using the transformer wires. I will continue for those who really want to do this. Using a mini screwdriver, I unscrewed the battery compartment in the light. I intended to solder the wires directly to the battery case terminals. If you unscrew the housing, the circuit board with the lamp will also come loose. So a cover is needed to keep everything in place. In addition, the cables from the case to the board are very thin. They are also very short. I intended to solder a wire to these mini leads and then connect them to the transformer leads. But I have chosen an alternative. I have wires with clips in my hobby. The method is to simply connect the wire to the spring terminal of the battery compartment. But only one side has a spring. Nothing to hold on to on the positive side. If you look at the case from the front, you can see that the minus of the second battery is equal to the plus of the first battery. I soldered a thin red wire on the back of the case to a connector that is common to the spring in the case. See image. I reinstalled the battery box (required to hold the board and also to operate the manual on/off switch). Then I just attached the clamps to the springs, one negative, the other spring remounted on the back of the case to be positive. I cut and stripped the other end of the clamp wires to twist and glue to the transformer wires. Did.