Bought 3 sensors before what AMAZON said was an upflow sensor and fit my car. The lesson is, DO NOT trust Amazon! I couldn't read the part number on the old air/fuel mixture sensor so I had to count the holes in the old sensor's tip (I had 7 total, 6 around the cylinder and 1 at the tip). And the only one that had 6 was this part #234-9041. Oreilys stocked 2 of these for $169.99. HOORAY! I paid $124 with shipping tax. Three other sensors I bought through an ad were replaced with downlinks after I left a Pix review saying they didn't work. As soon as it started, the check engine light went out. Let it run because it seemed like it was doing a mixture check at idle. SO happy, I mean I only saved about $45. But I also bought a $32 fuel filter/fuel pump strainer bag and my high idle was gone. It would be a cold start at 1600rpm and I would have to let it rev to a lower rpm before shifting as shifting into reverse at 1400-1600rpm is BAD and will often crash into gear. There was a jerky, unresponsive acceleration that was so painful in traffic. The fuel filter and screen were clogged black. Put in a new Beck-Arnley fuel filter and $5 mesh bag for $32 total and the fuel pump is JUST UNDER the back seat with an access hole. Getting dressed took 40 minutes. The hardest part is the electrical car connectors which are hard to unplug lol. and those damn devil clips from hell on the assembly, the clip on the mesh pocket, make sure you use the AWL to stretch that ring clip and the flat head to push it back under the lip onto the shaft. Took me 40-50 minutes and could have done my fuel pump as well but it had no starting problems just cool acceleration. So I know the Denso pump I have is better than a cheap $20 replacement pump. I think Denso rocks $50. When I change the fuel filter again in 20,000 miles (should be every 30,000 but it was so dirty I reckon this one will get dirty sooner). I will replace the pump with an original Denso for $50. May be. These pumps are durable and never took more than 4-5 cranks to start the engine which is perfect. IE: eht eht eht vroom Anyway, I hope I've helped some Camry owners with their fuel problem. EVEN if you hear a ticking noise in the engine. Place your hand on the canister purge solenoid near the intake filter. It's probably stuck in the open position, allowing air into the engine while it's running hot. Which will burn out the new air/fuel ratio sensor in a few months if released. The fuel mixture sensor failure is a failsafe to keep the engine from running too lean and hot for too long. A malfunction of the air mixture sensor keeps the fuel as rich as possible so that the gas tank purge valve does not burn the engine. So if you have the engine code for this solenoid like I have for this one and bank 1 sensor 1 p0031 I have only found genuine Denso solenoid parts on Ebay and Rock Auto. Ebay was $70, the Rockauto was $77. But after adding the solenoid valve, fuel filter/fuel pump filter and that sensor, it purrs like a kitten. Oh I also bought Denso Power Iridium spark plugs as my old ones burned out due to the solenoid sticking open and the engine running so poorly. If you replace them, check your ignition shoes. I have a melted connector but it works fine. I won't touch it now until I've replaced the wiring harness and coil. I hope I was able to help some Camry owners. Will be updated from this date if the engine light comes on or the sensor fails. If it's not updated, it's still 100% working! Edit: The water in the trunk caused a brake light ground issue which caused my battery positive to corrode, my horn to go weak, and the cruise control to not work. Found a rusty brake light in the trunk. Cleaned with a wire brush and my problems were gone. Even though my canister purge magnet is ticking again and my scanner is broken I don't ride it hoping I don't screw up the sensor until I get a scanner.
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