🔩 High-Performance ARP 1007708 Wheel Studs Review

I didn't want to buy these as I thought they were too long to use my original nuts and plastic caps (Stealth). Worrying for nothing, I pulled myself up like a champ and put my hats back on. I have installed them on some aftermarket 4340 axles for my 99 WS6 Trans Am and am happy with my choice of studs. The quality of ARP is never in question. They are probably also suitable for LT1 era (93-97) cars.

They press into the hubs without much drama. 100-7708 is the correct part for a Z32 300ZX rear hub, so if you have converted a 240SX this is the part for you. I've used ARP wheel studs on every car I've raced at the track and have never had a problem with the wheel studs (and some OEM studs broke off when I installed/removed wheels after the track). use).

It's ARP - what's wrong with that? The knurling and bolt head are perfect for the OEM parts I removed. Installation was as easy as you would expect. Excellent quality. Note. ARP torque requirements may differ from those of your vehicle manufacturer. For example, on my GM car, the manufacturer recommends 100 pounds. However, ARP recommended 85 pounds, stating that 100 pounds could strip threads or break a bolt. I had no problems running them on 85.

I switched to a Truetrac 30 Spline diff and Moser 30 Spline axles and needed longer, stronger wheel studs, especially to replace my disc brake. I was willing to cut the length of these studs down but with a Moser axle flange, LT1 brake disc and GTA wheel they worked perfectly, as did standard GM male lug nuts for the plastic cap as well as the plastic cap itself The Moser axle had .438" diameter holes for clinch studs as well as 1/2-20 threaded holes. I very carefully drilled .438" diameter…

I fitted these extended studs to a 1988 Pontiac Fiero for use with open ended spacers and nuts. These studs are M12x1.5 threaded with a knurl diameter of .509", length under the head of 2.50" and knurl length of .315". The ARP FAQ on the web says that when pressed into steel - or iron hubs must use a hole 0.005" smaller than the bolt knurl. The 2" sweep is pretty close, but a bit tight. I was able to push the studs into a slightly smaller hole and it worked fine, but it's probably better to get