Review on Honda Camera Reverse Parking Directly by Bill Gomez

I bought 4 separate rear view cameras to work on my 2006 Honda Civic. The other 3 didn't match, but this one did (camera pointed and aligned correctly). I only attached it to the molding on the trunk lid so I still need to wire it up and see how it looks on my receiver. I've seen some people on various internet forums trimming a piece to fit. I understand how one would assume that to be the case, but he does have some body curve. Once positioned correctly you can use this bend to insert and lock the clips into the hole. I was able to avoid drilling into the metal of the trunk by using a dremel to cut off the corner of the clear plastic tray/clip that houses the license plate light that attaches through the metal of the trunk (example in one of the pictures). another hole in the groin on the right side of the panel). I will update the review if anything turns out to be ugly. B. poor image quality, low-light functionality. One option I got was to attach the camera to a clear plastic clip that fits in the bulb hole above the license plate on either side. These looked a bit flimsy and some of the reviews I saw elsewhere said so. In addition, the camera clip prevented the lightbulb from being attached to the clip and allowed the lightbulb to function and illuminate the plate. Other models that didn't work had built-in LED lights, meaning you'll have to run wires for both the camera and the lights. Also, they didn't line up properly with the only attachment point, which is the hole for the marked license plate light. The mounting point is vertical when the truck is closed and these cameras were designed to be mounted flat horizontally on the front of a similar molding which allows for what is not possible on my car. Although on this model I chose the hole that allows light to exit is somewhat blocked, the hole is there and allows the standard bulb to illuminate the license plate (I'll try to take photos). It also looks more factory/standard from a typical viewing angle. This car is arguably less camera friendly than many as it can add an optional rear camera, so I was happy to find one that fits properly, looks like standard equipment, installs without having to open or drill the metal of the trunk, and Lets light in The license plate lamp matches the license plate and does not require additional wiring for LED lights on other models. Cons: - There is no obvious way to remove backward backup guides. Many of the aftermarket backup cameras have 3 loops of wire that you can cut to give you different options with these guidelines. For example, remove the guides, flip the image horizontally, or flip the image vertically. The default recommendations should work for basic use, but if you want to customize the backup recommendations offered on your receiver to give you a really accurate idea of where your limits are, you have two sets of recommendations that appear when You turn on the receiver. guidelines. My CarPlay receiver is a Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX and the backup notification is disabled by default when I reverse the car. Some receivers have them installed by default, so just pay attention to your use case and whether having two sets of recommendations in the backup image is a deal breaker. The power cord and ground wire used to power the camera were about 18 inches shorter than my application. I ended up having to splice the wire so the leads were long enough to go with the trunk wiring as well as the backup light wiring and ground point. Reversing light but it wouldn't turn on and the only working faucet was just in front of the same colored wire that connected to the bulb socket. - The red wires come from the RCA cable connected to your 12v reverse light. The cable and the return signal input on your receiver are short. I could probably screw it into the power line for the camera coming out of the 12V tap, but the actual cross section of the power line was quite high and I was afraid of damaging such a light wire by trying to use glue . It was also 32C in my garage at the time of installation, so I was also concerned that the plastic sheathing of the wiring was a bit stiff and trying to strip it could put extra stress on the cable itself. At this point in the installation, the camera was already in place and the power line was pulled into the trunk. Long story short, I chose to add only about 3-4 feet of additional wire to connect the backup signal wire to the camera's power line and to the 12V backup light wire Installation Considerations: - Tie-downs are your friends! So does wire strippers, needle nose pliers, electrical tape, and an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch tubing (to run the wire from the trunk lid into the trunk), not to mention some wire. Splicing and binding options. I've used positional products, specifically a positional connector and positional tap (20-22 gauge I remember) for splicing and threading (as recommended in some popular competitor's installation guide videos). While you could probably just tie the wires to the wires and cords already attached to the driver's side trunk, I recommend cords. As per the factory setting (which I've seen on two different makes of car already) this gives some slack in the cable which allows some movement in the channel when opening and closing the trunk. If the wires were simply pulled together by lightning, it's possible that there could be some stretching of the wires with such movements. The cable channel helps absorb the tension of the cable tie that fits snugly on the trunk handle and allows the wires inside to slide a little into the cable channel if needed. I'll try to take some photos of what I added. The only bottleneck I had in this line was when I had to connect the extra backup signal wire to the 12v reversing light wire, but it was sealed with tape. Otherwise there was enough room in the rest of the line for the wires to slide into the line when opening and closing the trunk. Since this is a car specific rear view camera, I found the length of the RCA cable to be near perfect. . I drew a line under the trim along the bottom of the car on the driver's side and then up into the dash and into the receiver. When I finally plugged the RCA jack straight into the receiver and plugged in, the game was probably at least a foot. You'd probably have even more wiggle room if you went for a "professional" setup and routed the cable under the middle. Rear seat and under center console as discussed in some installation videos and forums. My first backup camera setup was a Natika and if I remember correctly it was set up to only have two lines to keep an eye on for both. Camera and catches the reversing signal through the reversing lamp wire, just a black ground and a red power line. This setup means your only power supply option will most likely come from the 12v reverse light wire. Although it took me a while to figure out why I didn't activate the backup signal on the receiver when reversing (because this camera has two separate lines for). camera power and return signal), and I had to add extra cables. To keep things going I was able to see how this setup would benefit some setups. For example, if you want to extend the power and ground wire to the 12V DC wire in the car, you can still just connect the reverse signal wire to the 12V reverse light wire and get the best of both worlds. For example, manually look at the camera, which is always on, and have the receiver activate the camera feed when you reverse the vehicle. on a plate, even with partial clogging on one side. Edit 2/24/21: Added 2 photos showing an image at night. Looks just as good and maybe better than the stock backup camera on our other car. I will also try to take some photos in daylight. Edit 3/5/21: Added a wider view of the rear of the car in daylight, as well as a view of the receiver reversing in daylight.