After installation. Actually, I had to turn the thermostat down a few degrees in the winter, so it seems good for about 5 degrees of insulation in cold weather. The summer has yet to be tested. I would imagine that when it's hot outside much of the temperature control would depend on its reflectivity. In winter, film thickness provides most of the temperature control. Looking at window treatments for temperature control, it seems like most applications control drafts by applying shrink wrap to both panes to block drafts. This is effective but causes a problem when you need to open a window quickly. This tiny one is a nice middle ground, some temperature control but you can still move the windows. It's a compromise I'm happy with. As for the application, if you have tinted your car, it will be a trifle for you. If you don't already have a slide installed, you'll need to order a little more than you need. Just in case you need to cut a new piece or if you just want to practice with a small piece first. I don't have a specific difference in thickness but I would say this film is about 2-3 times thicker than car window tint. As stated above, for this temperature control application it makes sense to make it thicker. Also the non-adhesive sticky tint film is thicker than automobile ones. It's a blessing and a curse, depending on how you look at it. It's a little easier to handle and cut. However, if you get a bend or a dent or damage it in any way, it won't change heat. Auto tinting is a little more forgiving, and working with a heat gun can smooth out small creases and dents in the film. Don't worry, it applies well. I just want people to be aware, especially in the first few layers of a role. If you see a small dent or crease, cut out that part and start over. Especially if you use a mirror tone, every little crease will be very noticeable after application. I had a few small dents on the foil and thought they would smooth out with application. Not so. So be careful, watch out for anomalies in the film and be careful not to put tools on it, make sure cats or children don't walk on it, etc. Also, like any other shade, it will disappear. Movie. Spray the bottle with a drop or two of soap, apply with a mop and trim the edges so it lays flat. Because the glass is flat in the house, no heat gun is needed, no need to shrink. If you have curved windows this might work, but I would use a thinner film and plan to use heat in that case. Overall the fit and finish is great, when I checked there were two options: silver or dark mirror. I chose the darker of the two. As you can see in the video I added two photos. You make it very silvery. The other looks darker. It mostly reflects a smoky gray, appearing lighter or darker depending on how bright it is from the outside and what angle you're looking at it from. I tried to capture a one-sided feature, but it was difficult to capture on video. The mirror is not full, you can look into it, but it is very difficult during the day. It's almost exactly what I wanted, so I'm satisfied. It still reflects light at night, but if you turn on the light inside you can see everything very clearly. This is pretty standard for mirror films. How opaque it is depends on the direction of the light, if that makes sense. That's all, normal toning. If you are not sure, watch the video. It's mostly a time-lapse, but it gives the viewer an idea of what's being said. It's definitely within the ability of the average Joe or Joe-att. However, a quality scraper and a new razor blade will help a lot.
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