Sharpness and contrast are both present. It makes no sense to shoot with my copy at 300mm because somewhere between 220 and 300 parts are not added. It is almost like a fix at 70mm, but it becomes blurry between 200 and 300. (on 500D). The contrast is excellent in every way. Working on an open aperture at 70-220, which was an enjoyable and unexpected discovery (the aberrations are minimal). It is not necessary to stop the aperture in order to get a picture that is satisfactory. Producing to a high standard. Even though I have no experience with L-series lenses, I can tell that this lens is of higher quality than a standard kit 18-55 or 50 1.8. There are no negative consequences. There is not a single thing out of place; everything is in perfect alignment. The pipe that can be retracted deviates from the axis by what I consider to be the smallest angle that is generally possible with a design of this kind. In no circumstances can it be implied that she frequents certain establishments. It goes without saying that you should handle it with care, but when folded up, the lens is surprisingly portable and lightweight (relatively). The plastic is of an extremely high quality overall. (Fixed): When the lens is lowered, a tube will emerge, but only when you are walking. A teeny tiny amount for each and every step. It is not essential. Focusing. Speed tests of this lens were performed somewhere on the internet, and the results indicated that it took 0.6 seconds to go from MDF to infinity. Very much in the same vein as that. If you pre-focus closer to the object, then focusing will be nearly instantaneous in almost all cases. There is hardly any sound at all. The only sounds that can be heard come from the moving parts; the motor itself is completely silent. Stabilizer. It seems that you should shoot at 1/20 while standing with your hands. You have the option of selecting one of two or three frames that has an acceptable level of sharpness, which is the equivalent of shooting with a fast shutter speed. At 70mm, shutter speeds on the order of 1/2 are possible, and you have a series of options to choose from if you really need to take a picture. Although I am aware that the aperture will make it possible for you to freeze the object, I believe that in low light conditions, a hole of 2.8 will be of much less assistance than a stabilizer. It emits a faint sound (the volume is comparable to that of a pencil writing on paper), as well as a high-frequency whistle with a frequency of approximately 15 Hz that is audible only when there is complete silence and only when one is in close proximity to the camera. Valuable for the cost. The number 6 is the third digit in the serial.
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