Review on 🔋 SEIKO 3023.5MY Capacitor – Genuine Original by Aaron Schultz

Arrived quickly enough and with a charge bordering on 2/3 capacity (which is normal storage voltage). Tips for others: Watch the video and find photos of your movement with battery, insulator and washer details. Watch carefully as the left anode of the battery slides UNDER the copper contact of the mechanism. Be careful not to let the cathode contact get under the battery. Be careful not to short-circuit the battery with metal tweezers (if so, no longer than microseconds). I had to push down a bit with a screwdriver, but as soon as the torque broke, I disengaged. An inexpensive 15 gauge jeweler's loop is needed to align the battery, insulator and washer, but other than that the reading glasses worked best. Have a magnetized jeweler's screwdriver handy - cheap eyeglass screwdrivers can be sharpened with a nail file and magnetized by passing them over a fridge magnet a few times. Work on a few squares of white paper towel or white cotton cloth - if a screw only half a millimeter long pops out from under the screwdriver, the paper towel/cotton cloth will prevent the screw from slipping off the hard surface. table and disappears on the floor forever. However, and in any case, in the case of the list screw, a very bright flashlight pointed to the side of your line of sight and exactly parallel to the surface you suspected it fell on, but causes the list screw to jump back into the clock and screw itself - this has never let me down as even the smallest objects can cast the biggest shadows this way. To remove the waterproof back cover, get a cheap waterproof back cover wrench - it's under $10 and the two-point "sliders" work great. DO NOT use scissors. If you misalign the battery, insulator or washer, the watch may still work but not charge or have an intermittent short circuit, which has happened within a month. Use petroleum jelly or silicone grease to make the case cheaper. Back of the contact surface of the rubber seal. Or do one side to the other, but not both! Personally, I would NOT lubricate the rubber o-ring myself, and here's my logic based on experience: There must be a dry surface for a clean but dry o-ring to adhere to when the back cover is properly screwed on. You really want one of the two metal surfaces to be lubricated so it doesn't separate the rubber ring, but if the rubber ring is allowed to slide across both surfaces when tightening the back cover, it will slide outward (stretching in the process). So). ) and it keeps its new size by sticking out on one side or the other of the watch and you need to replace the o-ring that makes your watch waterproof.