Review on Progressive Industries EMSLCHW30 Surge Protector by Curby Alston

Camper: Palomino Yearling Y-4125 2008 MY INDUSTRIES EMSLCHW30 Surge Protector - The data display is a card that is in the box, not a separate one. This is not an outdoor unit that you just plug in and connect to the campsite shore power pole. There are a few things about this model that I liked more than other models: 1) Installed internally - cannot be accidentally left behind, cannot be easily stolen from shore power lines. 2) The display is in the box - no need to install data cables or other boxes. The card can be mounted in one of 4 90 degree angles (which is a big plus for the mounting location I chose). More on that later. 3) Although the paper mentions EMS bypass as it doesn't have a separate display unit/data line, it also doesn't have a bypass switch - which honestly, why the heck do you EVER bypass? just what you want the damn thing to do? 4) Basically you install it and forget about it unless you need to service or check - which they made pretty easy as the field replaceable units are installed in the box and the display automatically rotates its status every 15 seconds. So the total time it took me to install (Open the box, RTFM 3 times, find out what, where all the cables go/go/do/connect BEFORE I did anything, find the best place, to actually install it) and then it actually is. Installation took about 1 1/2 hours (including cleaning and testing). The WFCO Power Converter Box in my camper is in a compartment under the table and the power cord plugs directly into the back. Easy front access for all fuse/breaker operations and all AC/DC wiring from the rear. If you see the picture I've included, the main power cable enters from the right, so I turned the box upside down so the entry side is closest to it. I had to orient the display 180 degrees away from "normal" to see the data the way I expect it to be read. This is easy as the card is inserted into the slot in one of 4 positions. Even though the error code values are printed "upside down" on the front panel, if I have a problem I just need to look at the display and at any time I can just lift the bay cover and look at the display . By placing the box in the converter bay, I don't have to spend all night staring at the red LEDs flashing status data - which, to be honest, would really annoy me! If I want to see what it's doing I just lift the lid and look at it, and if not I just keep the lid closed. I chose this location because it would be out of sight and there would be enough room around it to "breathe" since it doesn't have its own fan to cool (like in the converter box). Remove the jumper to set the delay time to 2 minutes. I'd rather have time to diagnose what happened than reset it after 15 seconds and maybe do it again. The air conditioning/heating unit I have installed in the camper may or may not have an automatic delay, but why risk it? I was able to quickly find out that my 3 way fridge only draws 1A, the AC unit draws around 17A on start up and settles at 12-14A in normal mode. I only had to add 4 of my own screws to secure the box. at the back of the compartment. I chose to place it above ground in case of water leaks etc. The lack of 4 bolts is understandable as the manufacturer has no idea where or how you're going to place it and they probably don't want to fit many other types of bolts, nuts, bolts. So in summary: Relatively easy to assemble with just a few tools (cutter, wire stripper, various screwdrivers (flat, Phillips, square, pliers, pliers, insulating tape)). I used scouting out where you want it beforehand, you can get/buy the necessary 4 mounts to get the job done. Add a switch so the owner can turn them off or dim them. However, I recommend a small backlit LCD that shows the same data but has a small button to turn the backlight on and off so I can see it at night whenever I want and if it's not on people won't see it at night bother like my watch did. Now that I have mine installed in a closed bay it's not a problem for me, but I've read other reviews of this device (and the one with a separate display) and almost everyone says it's annoying. I used this device to determine that I don't have "hot skin" in my RV. That's the #1 reason I bought it. I didn't think so but the last time I used the camper we got low voltage lightning bolts touching the door and I was knocked out touching the water heater (and it's gas not electric and whatnot). Power supply is DC, not AC). The camp staff said they had no problem with the shore power and supposedly tested it, but I've used it at two campgrounds before and when I plugged it into my 30 amp circuit in my garage at home, nothing. The camp was completely full that weekend, so there has probably been feedback from this or that campground in our area. In addition to this device, I also bought an NCVT (Non-Contact Voltage Tester, aka the Klein Tool) to constantly monitor all of the metal surfaces on my RV AND the outlets I use. I already have a multimeter and a household AC outlet tester. I will never leave the house without all 3 and will ALWAYS check the batteries on shore before plugging them back in! I will also make sure ALL my outdoor power cords are strong and not causing any problems!