Land Rover makes some of the most difficult engines to bleed because their cooling systems are designed to withstand temperature variations in any part of the world, be it sub-Saharan Africa or in Antarctica. Unfortunately for those of us who own them and want to do our own coolant changes, relying on the manual actually takes a week to let every last bit of air out. This set did it in 40 minutes. The thread adapter fitted perfectly with the Land Rover reservoir, unfortunately the largest adapter was not included and this was fixed by wrapping it with Gorilla Tape before inserting it into the adapter. Sealed and ready, I turned off the cooling fan to make sure the engine was idling up to operating temp (don't do this unless you have a scan tool to make sure you're not overheating!). I then set the heater to maximum temperature (both front and rear) and left the fan on the lowest setting. The reason for this is that when set to maximum heat, the coolant flow valves are wide open, but setting the fan to low speed allows coolant to flow freely, but the heater does not extract all the heat to retard engine warm-up. high. The key to this process is to fully open the thermostat along with the coolant valves, and Land Rover will never do this just at idle, so you'll need to resort to these tricks. Again β SCAN GAUGE is crucial to knowing your actual temperature so you don't overheat and warp your aluminum heads! If you see it overheating, stop this process! I then installed a spout to prevent a spill, filled the rest of the tank underneath and filled the spout 1/3 full. I started the engine and let it idle. It took a full 40 minutes for the thermostat to open halfway (well enough) and allow all those ugly little air pockets to climb up the funnel and float into the air. Just in case I switched the HVAC from full heat to maximum air conditioning to open and close the coolant valves multiple times, mixing pressure and line flow until I finished them back to the maximum heat position. Each time I ran this HVAC cycle, more air came up, so I think it really helped. I started with a new expansion tank and cap as service parts before doing everything and the final bleed with an anti-spill funnel got my cooling system working properly. The repair manual describes a lengthy process that is great for filling but absolutely painful to bleed and I will never use it again. Now I'm going to use a funnel with an overflow protection. Your mileage may vary as if you don't have a scan tool and don't know the actual temperature you can interrupt before the thermostat actually opens as at least on Land Rover the temperature gauge will show a normal reading after that for 20 minutes at most. means the thermostat didn't open at all. So if you stop there, all of your venting time is wasted.
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