One of the main differences between expensive knives, apart from the material, is that they are stamped or forged. The best chefs usually have a favorite knife, and in most cases it's forged. They keep it very sharp and don't use a sharpener or sharpener with a spinning wheel to do this. This isn't visible to the naked eye, but gives the knife micro-serrations. It cuts well, but it could be a lot better. These other sharpeners are fine for an everyday chef's knife or a cheaper set, but it takes more to go pro. I have a pair of Japanese sashimi knives, they are long thin steel, sharpened on one side only and very sharp. I didn't want to damage them or dull the blades, so I needed a good set of whetstones. Videos on the web show 3 stacked quarters on the back of the blade giving an approximate angle for sharpening. If the knife is really rough, start with a 400 grit stone and then switch to a 1000 grit stone. You've reached the nirvana of sharpening, where you can easily cut through a piece of paper multiple times with your knife. You've seen a chef use a staff that looks like he's sharpening his knives before use. Although it doesn't really sharpen. It straightens the edge of the knife, which is especially useful with softer steels. It still needs sharpening with a good stone, and the combination here is decent. I also like the stand, it remains relatively stable when sharpening. I hold the stone firmly and don't move when I press the sharpener lightly. This is very handy for sharpening long thin blades for sushi or sashimi (raw fish) as well as a regular chef's knife. It is not intended for use with ceramic blades as this requires a diamond coated disc so they should be professionally sharpened center. Of course, ceramic tends to scratch, but does not tarnish when cut. This works for your good steel knives. highlighted.
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