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Review on Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III Body camera, black by Micha Kamierczak ᠌

Revainrating 5 out of 5

Just super, it's beautifully made, I'm very happy with it.

After much deliberation, I finally decided to purchase a new camera to replace my aging Fujifilm X-T10. When it came to taking pictures, he was more than adequate for me, especially when paired with the f/1.4 bomb lens; however, when it came to taking videos with him, it was a challenge because the video size was only full high definition, and the quality left a lot to be desired. And that's without even mentioning how simple the shooting is. The Olympus E-M5/10 and the Fujifilm X-T30 were both viable options for me. Yet, when it came down to it, the first one appeared to me to be more stable and worked better with the camera's stabilizer. I snapped it right away using a professional lens from the 12-40mm series that has a fixed aperture of f2.8. It's a fairly quick and versatile lens. When it comes to filming videos, this is really crucial. After making the purchase, I had a very critical question: given that there was a lengthy shooting session ahead of us, how long would the camera be able to record video continuously on a single battery? After around an hour, the recording began to automatically stop, but there was no indication of any faults or that it was getting too hot. The temperature of the carcass reached up to 45 degrees while it was in the warmest part of the room. The recording continued even though the camera itself did not turn off; instead, there was a ten-second pause during which the video was unresponsive. Because recording stopped while the freeze was in effect, there is a minimum of ten seconds of data that cannot be recovered in these kinds of situations. Following then, you won't have any trouble restarting the recording, but after a few minutes, it will stall out and freeze once more. Question for the people who worked on the camera: would you at least bring out some kind of error? If so, which of the following should I sin for: overheating, memory card, bugs, or magnetic storms? I would also like to bring your attention to the fact that it appears to have become common practice recently not to include full instructions in the kit but rather to make reference to them on the website. Because of this, people who enjoy the sound of rustling paper will be required to print 261 pages on an A4 size paper, and naturally, no one will transport this stack of papers with them. Everything requires careful examination and preparation in advance. My disappointment stems from the fact that the firmware ates have not yet been made available. I am hoping that they will address this issue. In point of fact, my evaluation was significantly lengthier and more juicy than it ultimately ended up being, but I was required to edit it for distribution on the market. About 8500 characters were removed since some of the less significant issues couldn't be avoided completely.

Pros
  • If you touch the screen, there is focus, and if you start turning the focus ring, there is also focus. You can manually rebuild the plan or correct the focus, and then you can touch the screen once more, and autofocus will work - it's a bomb. There is an input for a microphone, but there is no output for headphones; however, the first is already satisfactory. By the way, the internal mics do a good job of recording the sound, but I think I would be better off utilizing the Zoom H1 instead. There is a neutral color profile that can be used for post-processing corrections; although it is not Log, this is still a benefit. There is a light flicker scanner, but I haven't been able to write anything on it yet. It's pretty cool, but I haven't needed to use it because I haven't been able to figure out where the flickering occurs. The camera is nothing short of a work of art, and I take great joy in using it; yet, there is, as is customary, a fly in the ointment. I was concerned that the 4/3 matrix would not have sufficient aperture to accommodate my needs. In this sense, Fujik provided me with the option to peacefully shoot without the use of a flash in any kind of environment and yet achieve good results (at f1.4 hole). In the end, however, the E-M5 Mark III does not deliver ISO any inferior results, although having a hole of f2.8. That is sufficient for the eyes in terms of both video and still photography when photographing a family at home. Although I can barely hear them live, the focusing motors of the lens are not audible in the video. However, I can hear them. The scraping could be heard clearly from the fuji, and then there was a pause for silence. It's possible that this is the only benefit that the pro series lens offers. It is wonderful that the focusing process in video mode (done by tapping on the screen) is more fluid than in photo mode. Although the tempo can be changed, I find that a cinematic gradual transition works best for me. As this is going on, the focus does not "breathe" (that is, it does not twitch), but rather it moves from one item to another in a very smooth manner. In the photo mode, focusing is lightning quick, and the breathing effect is visible in low light; nevertheless, this is not a deal breaker for images; rather, they did a great job improving the quality of the video capture. Unexpectedly, the kit includes a flash, which is very great. Although I have already forgotten what it is on the Fujik, since the aperture ratio and the natural light are so much more enjoyable to work with than the glare from the flash and the loss of ambiance, I have already forgotten what it is on the Fujik.
Cons
  • There is a physical button for the ISO setting, but it becomes inoperable after the photography has begun for some unknown reason. At the same time, the ISO that is displayed on the screen is capable of being altered without any difficulties by utilizing the quiet menu. That is to say, you are able to adjust the ISO during the process, but there is no button to make this procedure easier. There is a backlight for the autofocus mechanism. It can be difficult to make out the contours of an image when the shooting conditions have a low contrast, but it is possible to modify the brightness of the contour. Nevertheless, when you are shooting, this setting will automatically switch to the normal brightness. There is a zoom button that can be used to assist with focusing, however it is disabled while the video is being recorded. There is a function that will automatically zoom in when the focus is changed, but it will not work while the video is being recorded. It works by about 10 cm, which means that when you are shooting and you try to reach the screen with your right hand, you will definitely touch this sensor, which cuts off your screen for a few seconds. The default setting for the eye proximity sensor to the viewfinder is to switch images from the monitor to the viewfinder. After switching the lens to manual mode, the focus works as it does by default, despite the setting in the camera that determines which direction the focus ring works. This is regardless of the setting that determines which direction the focus ring works in. The indicator for the battery only has three different levels. You can manually adjust the white balance using the physical button, but if you try to do it while the camera is in video mode, you won't get any results. It is necessary to use both hands in order to turn on the camera. It is not possible to power the camera with a USB cable, and the device will not even charge the battery if it is turned on while the battery is being used. It takes roughly three hours to fully charge! The fastest that my phone can charge is 3000mAh, and it takes an hour to do so. It's not my intention to imply that they used microUSB. You can set up two different focus modes, and then use a single toggle switch to quickly switch between them. There is a physical button for switching between the focus modes. Nevertheless, it is restrictive, noisy, and does not function properly while video is being shot. Because of the camera's diminutive size, when I attach my native 12-40mm 1:2.8 PRO lens to it, it cannot remain in a horizontal position on the table. To clarify, the camera is balanced on the lens, however because the lens is spherical, the camera does not balance properly and rather wobbles.