Review on 🔌 LEIGESAUDIO 0/2/4 Gauge to 4/8 Gauge Amp Power Distribution Block for Car Audio Splitter - 2 Way Copper Connector (1PACK) by Eric Speers

The slot is made of a decent alloy and not cast so it's accurate and doesn't leak much. The Single Ended has a 4/0 collet that doesn't really have a grip, so use caution when using the original 4/0 line like I did. You must unscrew the live beans from the setscrew to keep the collet from falling out with the live end. The two smaller holes don't have collets, which I wish they had. Also, the conductive block is held in place with a single screw in plastic that isn't hidden by anything. I filled it with silicone to prevent failure or accidental grounding. I also doubled the ladder retention by using some silicone inside the plastic volume just as a failsafe. I don't like that the live screw head is so exposed, you're asking about a short. It was one of the few compact units I could find and allowed for 4/0 input with multiple 4/0 outputs. In my case the feed is 4/0 then it splits into 4/0 and 8 gauges to split my power distribution between front assist and rear assist. The 8g pin is testing up to 35A at all times, and the 4/0 secondary pin is testing up to 75A at all times. I'm by no means expecting these loads to be constant or normal, but my 1000w inverter (1000 W actual power at 1850W peak load at startup), secondary lighting systems, UHF radio systems, radar systems, counters, the list goes on, they won't all run simultaneously, and this inverter will likely be somewhere in the 200-300 watt range in continuous operation run (with some starts around 1500 watts). HOWEVER, the point is that I feel safe in this guide. While I don't like some of the smaller stats, I'll be tweaking and making them safer in 5 minutes at the workbench. DO NOT expect this device to withstand pulling on the source cable with the collet attached. He *pulls* it straight out with a little effort, no problem. Tie your lines and store them in a sensible place.