Review on 🔧 Massca Plastic Welding Kit: Repair & Create with Rods, Mesh, Hot Iron Stand & Brush - DIY or Pro, Portable Use - 80W by Rob Dixon

The iron in this set is quite big so it is comfortable to hold. It has a robust construction and is excellent for heating plastics to be welded. The kit contains a sufficient amount of the most commonly used plastic. It heats up quickly and melts the plastic so that it can be flattened along with the added plastic to repair various plastic items damaged during use. The melting point is too low and they start to deform when heated. When pressure is applied to the tip, the almost-molten rod bends very easily, and no precaution will prevent this unless the tip is not in use. To avoid premature breakage when buying a new tip, I add additional threads to the shank and install a 1/4-28 nut on it. I then tighten the nut on the iron bearing shield after the tip is fully installed. This prevents the rod from overheating and transfers the pressure on the tip to the end of the iron. Another thing I've tried is using a 3/32" drill bit to drill through the center of the rod and insert the 3/32" end of the welding rod into the hole. This will prevent the melted end from bending under light pressure. A slight "bump" is usually left on the welding rod which, when pushed into a hole in the shank, prevents it from falling out again. These rods are made from used 3/32" weld rod. I haven't tried the extra nut on the new tips yet, but the hollow shank with weld wire inserted works really well with the 1/4-28 nut holding the two pieces together .and the shaft fits the nut snugly.I was able to complete my work while waiting for the new tips to arrive.If a shaft breaks, the portion of the shaft that remains in the iron renders it useless.The easiest way is to end up with a Drill a 3/32" diameter hole as close to the center as possible and use a small puller to pull the part out. The extractors come in a set of four and the smallest fits a 3/32" diameter hole that only needs to be drilled 1/4" in the end. If it's easier you can use a Dremel tool to carve a slot in the tip so you can pry part of the tip out with a small flat head screwdriver. The copper material is quite soft, making it easy to work with. And it doesn't stick to the iron very well. I haven't found a better iron for the money. However, a noticeable improvement could be made by adding an on/off switch to the power input and possibly a thermal controller to prevent overheating. I turn on the iron by plugging it in and then get ready to get the job done as the unit takes a while to heat up but then it seems to overheat - the tip is where it touches the heating cylinder leaves, almost melted. Even if you are very careful with the applied pressure, the tip shank will slowly deform and eventually break.