For beginners. I'm new, the printer is good. But this is my first printer. I've never 3D printed in my life. But I have a TF 2n1 USB card connected to my computer. Found on it a preinstalled program Cura. install it And I found some free 3D files on the internet. And started typing in an hour. *Bed Leveling* I do this every time I restart a new print. Why?. Because it has a magnetic bed stand. And good. i am machinist So I know if you've ever moved anything around your car. Always check your settings. This is easy to check. There are 4 zone alignment points at the corners. Click on the area you want to create. Tighten the nut in the area under the bed. Drag a piece of paper back and forth between the nozzle and bed until you feel very little drag. But before you jump into another corner. Hit the same area again, as you could touch the plate and accidentally move it a hair. So you just want to double check it. Now that all the Conors are done. Just check them again and adjust if necessary. *Load filament* There is a button for this on the touchscreen. After heating. The machine draws it into an extruded thread. And he will unload it. Be ready to help him rip his hair out as soon as you unload him. It can get stuck (I've loaded and unloaded the car 6 times). And I haven't had to clean the inside of the nozzle yet. I heat it up to 260° and then cool it down to 220° before printing to ensure a smooth flow. By heating I melt all the blockages inside. *Quietness* The machine is quite quiet. It's good because. I heard a problem Your overhead lines have a plastic chain in the upper left corner to protect against abrasion. It caught the tension spring on my Y-strap. I untied it from him with thread and he stopped making popping noises. And shut up so I can hear what's a must in the machinist world lol. I love it because I have this car in my living room. And I can watch a movie while he's typing. *Quality* did a good job on my parts that I made. I'm still tweaking my settings. And see how much I can reduce them. Just make sure you click on "Supports". And full to the brim. In your program that comes with the machine on a flash drive. I found out that they are needed on prints 😝. *Remove disk* is just a suggestion now. When the 3D printing is complete, pull out the magnetic plate by a hair. Leave to cool for 10-15 seconds. before you pull it out all the way. It gets very hot if you turn it up high. I retrieve my prints quickly so I don't have to delete them. I had an accident on my 2nd impression. I turned it off And came back later to clean it up. And I didn't want to leave. So I heated the plate to 70°C and everything came out fine. Now I'm doing Dragon Ball. This is where my resume ends. Good printer. Easy to use. Calm. (Update 7-11-21) So I changed the settings for my machine. And I've had it for a month now. And maybe a total of 400 hours of work and it still works. I had to replace the nozzle assembly with a silk thread that I bought and made a kite out of. This will cause a lot of carbon to build up in the nozzle and it is best to replace it. Zelda was made from Overture Stone PLA and it worked well. But I had some issues with it sticking to the bed because everyone out there seems to have the same issues with Overture. I have ordered a new magnetic bed and 5 new nozzles so that I can keep printing with this amazing printer for as long as possible. There was a power outage 2 weeks ago and the CV print function was working 95%. Why not 100%. This is because my 210°C settings for my PLA I was using went back to the 200°C temperature setting after restoring power and I didn't check as a dummy that everything was set the way I wanted it did after driving back. I set Cura to 200°C to let it do its job there. By following the pre-programmed temperature on the TF USB card. But any kind of temporary changes made manually must be changed again manually before printing can continue. I haven't experienced any issues, as have others who write reviews for this device. The fan runs at 100%. There is no melting of wires. There are no problems with the calibration. Everything is fine with my model. I hope everything turns out as good as I did when you choose this printer. And being called the master of 3D printing, I found out. You must do Benchy Boat (For Torture Testing) and print out Groot's right of passage. My benchy boot took my third try to get it 100% perfect. I just haven't done my Groot yet. I'm still waiting to use my wooden PLA for a special 19th century ship print I want to make for myself. But in my picture diorama you can see a benchy boat whistle I made for fun before my actual benchy boat was made.
Flashforge Adventurer 3D Printer with Detachable Precision Leveling System
6 Review
High-Precision And Stable Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer With New UI, Silent Mainboard, Effortless Filament Feed-In, XY-Axis Tensioner, Resume Printing, And Large Build Volume Of 220×220×250Mm
11 Review
🖨️ IFUN 3D Printing Liquid Resin: High-Quality Innovative Solution
5 Review
UV Curing Standard Photopolymer Printer by IFUN
5 Review