Review on Vktech® Snuggle Hammock Hanging Hideaway by Denise Miller

Listen, if you want a quality and cheap cabin like mine, buy it. It feels good and I haven't had any issues with wear and tear or injury to my Quaker parrot. However, this is entirely optional and is a hormonal booster for your bird. I made mistakes on the way to becoming a full adult bird owner and I'm paying the price. I researched about diet, diet, housing, health and got a lot of information, some of which was contradicting, but I never expected to run into hormonal issues. I pay dearly for this. Aggression, obsession, frustration, screaming, biting, cage dominance, etc. because I didn't understand or study the topic, when I could have avoided a lot and now unfortunately have to work 5 times more. Save yourself the hassle and stop creating dark places, lulling your birds and providing chew toys for enrichment and feeding, and a healthy diet of vegetables, grains, fruits and nuts/seeds. This applies to all birds, not just large birds or parrots. Use a different natural tree bark like apple and manzanita (CHECK FOR ANOTHER BIRDPROOF WOOD) than that supplied in the cages so your bird doesn't suffer leg deformity and stiffness from using the same size and width as the dowels/sits over one long period. Birds should also have access to bathe every day. However, life sometimes does not allow for this at least every other day or every 3 days. You need at least 12 hours of restful sleep. There should be no toxic fumes, aerosols, solutions, chemicals, fragrances, etc. Make sure there are things in their cages that can be destroyed. Birds interact with their beaks, so they need toys to destroy them with. Destruction is their pleasure. There is a sense of achievement. If a bird doesn't destroy its toy, it HATES it. So, get rid of the plastic and metal parts, which, by the way, pose a safety hazard, and put the natural ones in place. Give your bird plenty of time outside of the cage to spread its wings. Birds need adequate exercise. I know some people will disagree with me when I say this, but that's my opinion, birds shouldn't clip their wings. Just like cats should not have their claws removed and dogs should not have their vocal cords severed. They come with wings, you knew that, so it's not fair of you to ban them from doing what comes naturally to them. If you now have to crop, because e.g. One of their wings is deformed and it is necessary to prevent them from flying and then do so in a way that balances them. The cut should be the same on both wings and the vet should make it for you so you can see how to make it yourself in the future (IF you are sure). Be careful because if you cut off their bloody feather they may bleed out just like a cut off toenail bleeds easily. Have the power to stop the blood loss just in case of shearing injury and when not. It's like a bird bed. In pink, you can use cornstarch to help but not fix. Take your bird to the vet even if you have used one. In addition, if you are afraid that they will fly out of the house and lose them, teach them free flight, including the memory of flying. So if they ever fly outside, which my Quaker did a few years ago, and landed in a tree and could be found, the flight recall feature works and is a good investment for you and your bird. The tutorial I'm doing right now. If that is not possible, I would suggest clipping your birds' wings in the summer months and taking them outside on a leash or in a stretcher during the day, and letting their wings grow and fly as your door dictates in the winter months would most likely be closed or closed quickly to keep warm. Also, when buying a cage, buy one that is wider than it is tall. Birds fly more horizontally than vertically. Therefore, if you buy a tall cage, it may appear that there is more space, but that is not the case. Birds like to be tall, so they tend to stay in the top 1/4 of their cage, losing 3/4 to the left vertically. However, if you have a wider cage, even if your bird stays mostly upstairs, it will have more room to explore from side to side. Look for free flight cages and learn the grid spacing that works best for your bird. Also, I can't help but mention the feeding toys. Birds spend most of their lives looking for food, it takes place in their brain. Give them easily accessible food throughout the day and they will use their brains less. NOT GOOD! Put them in granules (not the Cathy paint manure and similar brands) early in the day and then in the evening as above. I give my Quaker to Rudybush. There are also a few others that are really good and will save you vet bills later due to malnutrition. The seed and nut diet itself is garbage. By the way, they offer a lot of fat. It's like they only feed you candy. It should be a treat but not staple food, even for small hookbills/finches/parrots etc. You can eat chops and chops are a mix of bird safe and healthy foods cut into small pieces where even the picky eaters will eat what they need. usually not because everything is well mixed. There are recipes. I'm seriously considering buying the seasonal one for sale on YouTube. I watched their videos and this information became an arsenal to learn how to care for my exotic feathered friend. In any case, use treats, seeds and nuts for training and communication. Also, be sure to examine their feces. Yes, it sounds gross, but making a note of what it looks like when your bird is not sick can give you a clue as to when it is sick. Also remember that birds are very good at hiding their illness. What you should look for is the change in your bird's personality, especially when it comes to food. If they used to act like Pooh and Honey and are now acting like Piglets, beware. Unless it's cold they can't sleep and are fluffy when standing on one leg, notice. When they are no longer social, or at least try to acknowledge it. When all 3 run to the vet. I did a little research and figured out what to look out for and I noticed something when my parrot was a baby and was still formula fed and she looked unhealthy. Mom didn't notice, but I did. The next day I went to the ER in town and found out that she had a yeast infection in her crop (something we call throat/stomach). All in all it cost me about $600, which is $300 more than I paid for it, but that brings me to another question. Birds are very expensive. It may not look like it, but it is if you do it right. Consider it. Some of them may be life partners and therefore permanent commitments. Some cockatoos live to be over 80 years old. My Quaker is expected to be over 16 years old. Getting a bird will change your life, be prepared. Seriously and make sure you do general bird care research and are related to the bird you are interested in. I wouldn't pick a Quaker Parrot for the noise factor alone, let alone how territorial they can be. I think a green cheek or cockatiel would be a great addition to my family. Also, don't think about giving priority to speech over other reasons to get a particular bird. I did it and again I'm paying for it and yes my Quaker speaks and she can do it very well and she has a really good vocabulary but she's a shy speaker so we don't hear that often BUT ABOVE ALL you knew that she it really is good in- SCCCCCRRRREEAAAMMMMIIIINNNGGGGGG! I can hear her from my neighborhood and she's so good at it I'm partially deaf. I am 31 years old and I am concerned that I have already partially lost my hearing. To be honest, screaming drives me crazy and sometimes I don't know what to do other than lock myself in my room and put on a movie or hop on the doorbell. I even thought about giving them to an orphanage. However, I know that I have confused her with my lack of knowledge and understanding and she should not lose her home because of it. So I'm doing everything I can to make a difference. Wish me luck and I will do the same for you! Oh, and if you've read this far, then you're G. Tata.