First a few things: 1) you're going to be drilling holes in the roof of your truck (once you do it it's going downhill) 2) dirty fingers! You work on the interior of your car. Watch what you touch. Things I learned during installation: - The 7/8" light holes are not big enough for plugs once the lenses are installed on the roof. You'll need to cut the rubber around the connector so it goes through the roof and fits into the lens. (DO NOT drill them further or the rubber grommets will not keep water in the cab.) - Use RTV sealant around the holes you drilled before placing the lens on the roof (after painting the holes). You'll be glad you did later when the light isn't leaking. Use the small zip ties on the plastic nuts that secure the lenses to the roof (use black PVC ties, NOT WHITE - PVC ties survive the summer heat). Tighten them securely with pliers. Then go back to each screw and tighten them a little more. You'll be glad you did later if your headlights aren't leaking. - The A-pillar (passenger side) has a cover on the side of the dashboard. take it away A connector is fixed inside the dashboard, which can be reached after removing the cover. Pull it through the hole once free and look for the abandoned white wire with a green stripe (for my model year). Check with voltmeter (lights up, goes out). You should be able to connect this cable for the cabin light. IT'S A TWO-PERSON JOB (sort of). You will need someone to help you place the template on the roof and secure it with light tape (I used blue masking tape). Otherwise, a light breeze will tear the stencil. The paper is not very strong. I cursed a lot (I made it myself and hated every moment laying the stencil out in a light spring breeze.) - The stencil can be cut in half (lengthwise). This will save you a lot of pain when pitching on the roof. There is a lot of unnecessary material in the template. If you have a satellite dish on the roof, first cut a hole in the INSIDE template. Use clear tape to reinforce the remaining areas of the template so it doesn't tear when you place it on the roof. Otherwise the template will not work. You'll need someone in the cab to help you attach the lenses to the roof (someone will hold the plastic nuts while you screw in the lenses). Your arms aren't long enough to reach the center light and assemble it yourself (I'm 6ft 1in - I gave up trying to do it myself and got help). You will need to drill a tiny hole in the extra material of the windshield supports to attach the ground wire (screw included). Walk as far away from the windshield as possible (toward the back of the wearer). - I feel very comfortable and this setup wasn't terrible. HOWEVER, I had to find a drill that would accept a 7/8 bit. The exercises I have get me through 95% of my projects around the house. When I bought the drill I found that the chuck on my drill was not big enough to fit the drill. That was my only real failure. (The drilling usually takes about 10 minutes after setting the template). Find your buddy who uses an 18 volt drill and borrow it. You will thank me later. I didn't need any additional parts (other than RTV sealant, blue masking tape, and a 7/8 bit). The total construction time was about 4 hours, including dismantling and cleaning. The bulbs supplied are not very bright (these are cab lights only). Eventually I'll probably find a brighter aftermarket bulb, but they still look great and improve the look of the car. Overall I am very happy with them!
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