Review on 10-Meter Filament Temperature Change: 32°C (8 Feet) by Justin Guldin

This PETG really isn't that different from the higher end materials (like Hatchbox) that I used religiously before I started saving pennies. It has a pretty nice matte finish that complements the DIY speakers I'm working on. I work with this material a lot as it has good strength and heat resistance, making it ideal for 3D printer components with heated cases. Below are some additional printing tips that you may find helpful. Note. I use Slic3r because it's free and highly customizable. I print with a layer height of 0.3mm to save time on these larger objects. Funnily enough, it also helps prevent tension and over-extrusion, and I've had no issues with layer strength being compromised. 40 mm/s is usually optimal for PETG. Depending on the geometry of the object, you can try speeding it up to 50mm or 60mm, but this introduces more tension and can cause the extruder to stall (this has happened to me a few times). My starting temperature and speed is 255°C, which is the upper limit. what you should use for PETG and 20mm/s speed. This promotes adhesion of the initial layers, which is most important. It then cools down to 240°C, which is the average for this plastic. I use a really good glass heating stage up to 100°C with some superglue. Some people may say it's too hot but in my experience it was perfect and never had any flaws or warping. Adhesion is great and really helps when printing large objects on a large surface with little elevation change. At lower temperatures, the plastic will eventually pull towards the object as it hardens and may tear off at the edges. It helps with that. Retraction settings are generally the most important for PETG. Every printer has its own special place. I am using a BMG direct drive clone extruder and a 3mm draw length to reduce tension. Anything outside of these limits causes occasional congestion, and anything below can add to the tension factor. The 30mm/s speed seems to work well with this length in my setup. If you drive fast, you might encounter problems like the ones mentioned. Using a Z-Lift after each layer height slightly increases print time, but also helps reduce stress. If you have a high traverse speed that is higher than the print speed, for example 100mm/s, then you will not have problems with the filament melting at the hot end during retraction. In particular, Slic3r has a setting to prevent retraction when the distance from one point to another is too small, and this can help avoid smudges on detailed objects where many small extrusion points meet in a dense space. I've uploaded a screenshot of these settings if you'd like a link. Your fan cooler should be configured. Everyone's cooling setting is different, but I got lucky at around 45%. These settings usually work with other filaments like PLA and ABS. Just set the temperature differently.