For those of you worried about air getting in around the rubber fitting on the exhaust valve, don't look for what you're looking for, it's all Air is a liquid color change being sucked into the recovery tank, but no braking system. You will find that as the exhaust hose ages, more air can pass through it. I use a 2hp supercharger and had a similar crap unit that is 30 years old. I do many full fluid flushes every time I do brake work and also when I change brake lines. Remember that car manufacturers recommend venting under pressure, not vacuum. The reason for this is that vacuum bleed ABS brake systems can close the solenoids in the ABS module, preventing a full flush from the main module to the ABS module. You can see this by the flow of liquid through the transparent hose when bleeding. The solution is to turn the key to the off position to allow the ABS module solenoids to be energized, sometimes a few pedal strokes are required. At power up, the solenoids turn on. The latter, and this has only happened twice after hundreds of brake applications, when working with drum brakes I've had wheel cylinder cups pushed off due to vacuum, requiring the wheel cylinder to be disassembled and the cups reinstalled. Is this due to bleeding or poor assembly of the slave cylinder? I tend to have bad builds, but now when bleeding empty drum brake systems I apply fluid by gravity and pump the pedal until it's no longer bled before vacuuming. I also have a bleeder and still use it a lot, especially to collect old fluid from the bleeder when I bleed. Overall I am looking at this unit to replace my old unit mainly because my hoses are old, stiff and discolored. Too bad they only sold the hoses. FYI, Mist sells hose o-rings and a filter, but there's $$. Final emptying of the disposal tank, yes it helps to put some lithium grease on the o-ring and top not over tightening. I squeeze the tank between my legs to loosen it, but don't overtighten, you don't have to
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