If you are not prepared to do chemistry with the mouse after the purchase, under no circumstances should you take it. If you press the buttons "bitingly," which involves elevating your finger above the key and "overclocking," so to speak, the microswitches will double-click when you first use them. Nevertheless, to be honest, this did not cause me any exceptional difficulty in either my work or my gaming; I simply press it differently now, without lifting my finger off the button. As I've had the wheel for a month already, the encoder on it has already normalized its looseness; nonetheless, when the wheel is turned in the direction of the user, it makes an unhealthy rattling noise. Glides are fairly soft, but bearable; I change my mind about them for the company because of everything else. It makes no difference to me at all if the connector is 8p8c or ethernet as long as it is present because the mouse only needs to be charged once every 4-5 days. In principle, the connector does not cause any problems. Logitech, however, went completely insane for the sake of the money. I am pleased with the acquisition; I had my heart set on this specific mouse because of its appealing sensor and shape, as well as its weight; nevertheless, I was aware that it can get stuck easily. I will replace the buttons (400 for four TTC pieces), as well as the encoder (200-250, I took Alpine), and there are no problems finding slides on the secondary market (300-1500, depending on the brand). Therefore, if you are not familiar with a soldering iron and a screwdriver, or if you are not prepared to overpay for the cost of work to the master, in addition to the cost of parts, or if you are not prepared to measure with, to put it mildly, the average quality of the mechanical component of the mouse, then you DO NOT NEED TO TAKE IT.
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