I have to say this is my first amplifier for cars. But before that I worked with pop sound and in studios as a tech. personnel, therefore, in general, I am guided by the issue. The sub, due to weak filters, plays dirty at medium and high volumes, so you need a head with a subwoofer output with an internal filter or an additional external filter. There is a huge difference when you cut off 100% of the frequencies with a software cross (my home system) and when you cut off on the amplifier itself. The speaker is not loud, but you can hear the middle frequencies, you can hear what song is playing. Of course, if the whole system is playing, then this will not be heard, especially if the sub is in the trunk. I tested it at home on Creative X-Fi Titanium directly and cut off 80-90Hz with a software cross - the amplifier itself sounds good, there are no distortions in the power range I need. Subsonic, if it works, is even weaker. I drove sine from 1 to 50Hz, everything is visible and audible, regardless of the position of the adjustment. I powered it for testing with a 2m wire with a cross section of 0.75 sq. mm from a computer power supply (12V 18A). The wire is not even warm and at half power (and I need no more than 25%). With such a low consumption, you can take power from the cigarette lighter (I have 15A on it, so you can remove up to 200W at the peak). On the amplifier itself, I will also replace the fuses with 15A. The sub itself is 6.5 "in my armrest of the driver, and there will be an amplifier under the seat. By the way, the sub in the WL is about 3.5 liters, the sound is very elastic and clear (cannot be compared with FI) and there is enough power with this arrangement above the roof. Conclusions: the price decides. For an average subwoofer and an uncomplicated ear, a normal choice.
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