Review on 🔧 Dorman Front Rack and Pinion Mount Bushing (OE FIX) for Toyota Models - 905-400 by Matt Welch

Longer bushing for bolt through frame crossmember has a thicker lip than the factory bushing so much that it is very difficult to align the hole for the vertical bushing. This job turned out to be a lot more labor intensive than I had imagined, but at the end of the day my steering feel changed from very vague to much more specific. I can't verify, but the camber doesn't seem all that wrong. I left the steering rack connected to the steering shaft and did not remove the tie rod ends. If I were to assume that the slightly thicker hub means that it can turn a bit to the left and deflect a bit compared to before, I didn't notice anything while riding. remove the stabilizer almost completely. I unbolted the top ends of the stabilizer bar end links from the passenger side stabilizer bar, removed both stabilizer bar frame brackets and folded them back leaving the driver side tie rod attached. This gave me enough room to slide the rail far enough to push out the center vertical bushing, using a 32mm head as the receiving part and some threaded rods, washers and nuts to make the press. The left hub was a bit tricky as I didn't have what I needed to make a press for it, but if you have a ball joint press kit it will probably fit. Be sure to cut the edge of the bushings as you pry them out with a knife and pry them open with a screwdriver to squirt some WD40 under the factory bushings to pry them out. Before you start, if you live in a rusty area, spray the center bracket. Screw in every day for a week with a PB Blaster or something similar, then pry them out and tighten with a pry bar to make sure you can loosen them. There is very little room at the top to insert a tool, so a 19mm flat head on a break bar would probably be your best bet. I also bought a long flex head ratchet to remove the fasteners after breaking them and it was 100% worth it. return. When the wheels touch the ground, it's much more difficult.