When winter approaches, I like to do one last inspection of family cars before the weather turns unfavorable for maintenance. This year I added this battery tester to the pre-process. In short, I like it and I think it gives good data for cars with conventional engines. I used it on our CR-V and it gave exactly the results I expected from a 2.5 year old battery (92% SOH, 90% SOC, 7.62 mΩ resistance, 10.04 V min after start within 2.0 seconds during engine start). ). All these numbers make sense and it can also do a basic diagnosis of the alternator on combustion engine vehicles. All of this is great, and if you have a conventional car, stop reading: the device is good, good value, and you need one, it's a good one. It didn't work nearly as well on my electric car. There is no large load at start that can be used to assess the condition of the battery during start and there is not the same type of alternator that can get a clean test report. (The DC/DC converter is not tested in the same way as you cannot control the speed of the generator [which is not electric] to help the device pass the test.) As a result, the test report for the 12- Battery volts in my electric car wasn't that impressive and the measurements weren't particularly meaningful except for the baseline voltage state at rest and state of charge. If you have an electric car and don't want to remove the battery from the car to test it in this mode, which is obviously a lot less convenient, this tester is probably not the best for you, but since the battery life on an electric car is a lot easier and has a much lower load at "start". " Auto, testing a 12 volt battery in an electric car is not that critical. Overall, this is a good, inexpensive device and the convenience is very high for conventional cars. Recommended for this occasion.
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