This is a must have product in my opinion, especially when you never know when your next battery will be dead. It's also a very handy product if you work a lot with used cars and don't know the condition of the battery you're dealing with. This saves you money and time because you don't have to go to the workshop to have the test carried out. And you can easily do it yourself whenever you want. The tester comes with a nice black carrying case and 2 extra rolls of paper to print out the results with the date and time. This tester does not come with its own battery and you can use it by connecting the clamps to your car battery or use the included USB and use it at home. The integration of USB is also a big plus as you can view your saved results at any time without having to connect them to your car battery. Printing is also another big plus for this model. The clamps can either be connected to the battery outside of the car if you wish to test the battery prior to installation, or you can connect them while the battery is fixed in the car. When you open the program, there are 2 options for this. The power cord is permanently attached to the tester and cannot be removed. The tester has many good options but the instructions are so simple and don't go into detail how to operate it. It is assumed that you have somehow acquired a basic knowledge of battery types. It took me a while to figure this out and how to use it, and here's my summary to make it easy for you: As soon as you connect the tester to the car battery with the car off, it will show you the voltage. Assuming the battery is a standard 12V battery, if you see 12+V that is a good sign that your battery is fine. : plain flooded, AGM,GEL,EFB. Normally most cars have regular batteries. I would choose the normal default setting if I can't find this information on the battery label. But you can also check with a mechanic or other person if you don't need this information. 3-Choose a standard. You have about 10 options. The easiest way is to select the CCA and then the CCA number. The CCA number can be found in the text on the front/label of the battery. You can also search the battery model number on Google to find the CCA number. 4. After completing the above steps, you can start the test with the engine off. Good battery or not. The 6th-2nd Test (crank test) checks the ability of the battery to start the vehicle. You must turn on the motor for this test while the tester is connected. Again, this will tell you if you have a normal start or not. 7-3. and final test (load test): the tester asks you to give it gas for 5 seconds until it reaches about 2500 rpm. This test will also tell you whether your charging voltage is normal or not. This completes all 3 tests. A summary of my battery test can be found in the attached printout of the results. Any abnormal results will be flagged by one of the tests above, allowing you to decide on next steps and whether it's time to buy a new battery. It tells you when testing if your battery needs replacing or can be salvaged. I also did my first test at an independent workshop to verify the accuracy of the tester who agreed. Hope that helps.
Autoscanner for car diagnostics Rokodil ScanX Pro, OBD2 scanner
29 Review
Precision Bike Torque Wrench Set for Mountain & Road Bikes - Pro Bike Tool 1/4-Inch Drive with Allen & Torx Sockets, Extension Bar, Dual Readout, and Storage Box
11 Review
Vgate ICar Pro Bluetooth 3.0 OBD2 Code Reader | Scan Tool For Torque Android To Check Engine Light & Car Faults
19 Review
eTORK 3/8-Inch Drive "Click Style" Electronic Torque Wrench: Precise Torque Control (25-250 In. lbs., 2-20 ft.-lb.)
12 Review