Review on 🔧 Savior 798653 Carburetor - BS 791077 790290 693865 697354 795069 698860 698859 696981 694508 790182 790180 591299 798650 Carb: A Reliable Solution for Efficient Carburetion by Joshua Ford

The short story is that this carb fits my tiller but has the wrong gasket and my original choke lever didn't fit properly and the long story follows. I have an MTD 410 rear cultivator with Briggs engine with HTF carburetor (hard to find) 694112 or OEM air cleaner kit 592679 (old part 697028) with a complete air cleaner/housing kit that I don't have. Need and both were around $60 and I recently ordered a filter kit direct from China for less than $3 with free shipping. I've only found one listing for a carburetor under the same part number on a guy who used gaskets for about $45. After checking other units with the same engine, it turned out that a 697028 or 696981 carburetor (and many others) could work, but I couldn't find a 693628 choke carburetor for my tiller (long with big arc) , additional gasket required for carburetor spacer or proper gasket 792870 between carburetor and filter. The carburetor I want has a high air intake, so the gasket that comes with it either needs to be changed or it will cover the air intake on the top right. This meant buying that and then a rebuild kit to get the arm and extra gasket so I bought a Briggs & Stratton 591378 699966 699958 AUTOKAY carburetor for about $8 to get the extra parts and I already had the repair kit 695157 (which I don't have the correct seals because it was the wrong kit for my tiller). The correct kit was 792006 and for about $7 more I can now reassemble the old unit and get a replacement even though the filter was wrong. I could have replaced the gasket that came with it, but getting the right kit was worth the extra small cost. If like me you don't need extra parts, buying a replacement carburetor is actually cheaper than rebuilding an old one as not too many things can go wrong. So I paid about $40 for what I thought I needed... still way better than OEM Briggs which is also made in China and then comes in a Briggs & Stratton package and not premium IMO price guaranteed. This carburetor is identical to the one on my tiller and probably the same one that comes with Briggs 592679. In the long term it probably took a lot of work to keep what I did but the tiller is almost 20 years old and used about 4 times a year I think it was worth it. There are many alternatives but it takes time to find them, but if you don't like that, take the parts list for whatever you have and just buy the one listed as the correct replacement. I found this while holding my old carburetor in one hand and comparing it to photos of this one. If I had removed the carb beforehand I wouldn't have bought the wrong rebuild kit so I'll be careful not to make this mistake again on my next unit. However, when trying to piece together what I need to get this one working, I found that my new throttle was too thick to fit in this carb, and my old one didn't fully close the throttle because the bottom one Hole this has not been drilled. deep enough to fit... and for one thing, the hole was poorly drilled and had slivers of metal in it. What a futile exercise to save a few bucks so I finally gave up, sold everything I could get on eBay and bought a more expensive Briggs part. I had to buy a new fuel line adapter to rebuild the old one so it will last me for years to come. This carb weighs about 1/4 the weight of my original carb and is clearly not of the highest quality, which is probably why it's around $10 on eBay. I'm glad it worked for so many reviewers, but if you need to modify it for a different choke knob than the one supplied, you're likely to run into problems, and this isn't uncommon on small engine carburetors. It also doesn't have a choke adjustment screw, and I removed a star for a poorly machined choke lever hole. I have a lot of old gas powered equipment because of the build quality compared to all the plastic on newer equipment... cultivators, snow blowers, shredders, mowers, lawn mowers and more... and almost 100% of my running problems are carburetors. Finding the right carb is always a test of time and patience, but most of the time it's worth it. A few years ago finding a replacement carburetor was very limited and very expensive. A Briggs OEM replacement for my tiller is over $100 on their website, but this one is only $15. Sometimes you get what you pay for but the reviews are helpful and now I can find literally hundreds of deals for what I need and if the prices are under $20 and the reviews are positive I don't care whether the OEM can be a better carburetor because I can replace it several times for the same price. The carbs are now lower than in repair kits and most kits don't come with a float and pin which is often one of the problems and the float itself is another $10 added to the repair kit. You can't do much with this carburetor and the conversion includes about 4 parts. After opening my old one, I found that there was a small bug stuck in the gas hole from the bowl to the carburetor, which I blew out with an air hose. My snowblower is the worst carb eater due to the conditions it runs in and the moisture it builds up so a new carb costs about $10 and a kit about $25 and if anything goes wrong I'm not confused. I have enough time to get a kit, disassemble and reassemble the carburetor when I need to shovel snow or work in the garden. I always have a spare carburetor for all occasions and try to rebuild the old ones so if some equipment stops working I can replace the carburetor in about 30 minutes and be back up and running. I switched to gas without ethanol and it helped a lot and I don't drain the gas so nothing dries out. I keep all my gear in a weatherproof place and it's about an acre from tools and a shop so it's very difficult to pull out a piece of gear and then have it malfunction and I have to lug it to the shop when I can replace the carburetor right where it is in minutes with a tool or two. Most of the time when I do repairs the problem is a stuck float valve or a piece of dirt. Check all of the cross reference numbers for your carburetor...because every manufacturer and/or brand has a different number for the same item...and save yourself a few bucks. I have some bad carbs but they are cheaper and have few reviews but most are from China. Having made about a dozen replacements I really can't fault them, except that they might not last as long as the OEM they replace, but for the price I'll avoid the more expensive alternatives because I have too much vintage gear I have costs to justify it, or I have a carburetor that costs me more than the equipment itself... Stop the carburetor babble!