Good (not great) portable wire cage for the price. The construction and materials aren't as good as the old galvanized (light brass colored) wire cages, but that's true of most products. Suitable for dogs that do well in the cage. For dogs that can run away, you need to strengthen the cage. I added a 1/4" U-shaped wire clip or two on all edges (front and back top and side edges) of the cage that weren't already crimped (crimped) together and used double 4-5/8" bolt fasteners (top, side and bottom) for double locking of the doors. See photos. I also use a cable clamp or bolt latch to hold the bottom tray wire (holder) in place so the dog doesn't push the tray out. You can find cable clamps ($0.90 each) and double deadbolt latches ($3.16 each) at most hardware stores. Adding wire clips to the edges prevents dogs from pushing through these open edges, adds structural rigidity to the cage, and makes the cage quieter when transporting a dog in a car. (Note: I finger-tighten the nuts on the cable clamps to avoid damaging the painted wire and quickly breaking the cage if necessary). My German Shepherd who weighs over 90 pounds is doing great in a crate out of the box. My 35lb Siberian Husky needs extra clamps to hold her in the cage. I measured the wire of this cage to be 0.148 inch (about 9 gauge) in diameter. The old galvanized wire cage is .180 inch (about 7 gauge) in diameter. Aside from the difference in wire size, the new wire cage feels softer than the old one. If I had time, I would look at a thrift store for an old galvanized wire cage. IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't be a stupid owner. DO NOT pack your dog, leave him unattended and think everything will be fine when you come back. Dogs need to be cage trained. Some dogs cannot be trained in a cage, they may injure themselves (break teeth, paws, fingers, toe claws, nose, choke, etc.) when trying to get out. Don't leave the crate unattended unless you know what your dog thinks about the crate. The cells are not to blame. Just stupid owners. Hope that helps.
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