Review on 👞 Seeutek Shoe Repair Machine Hand Cobbler Sewing Machine: Better Shoe, Bag and Cloth Fixes with Manual Leather Stitching – Ideal for Cotton Nylon Line Stitching by Morgan Gilmore

This is a good buy at $130. You won't find anything else like it, even close to this cheap one. However: I wouldn't buy this unless you have the mechanical skills and patience and are willing to take advantage of a 75% finished product. You need to make some minor changes and modifications to work successfully with this machine. It works as usual, but its behavior is inconsistent. Machine inconsistencies can ruin a sewing project. Treat it like a project purchase, it will be a sewing machine in daily work and care, but you need an open mind and a little patience to make it shine. It has many levers, cams, and rotating elements, all of which can be adjusted, shifted, and aligned based on impact. The machine itself was covered in a mixture of oil and rusty slime. Only the top part of the frame is painted, the sides are not. The packaging is a styrofoam clamshell however the oil will dissolve on the machine and melt the styrofoam leaving missing holes in the packaging material/clamshell. The box it came in had oil stains on one side. Problems: - The instruction manual needs to be revised, it's translated but doesn't seem to be properly tested, it takes a bit of thought to understand the specific wording. - greasy and rusty - a lot of half rust, half greasy slime in the car, with an admixture of foundry sand and sand. I used car spray cleaner to remove the crumbs and old grease and put in new oil. Sand, camps don't like sand. - The walking cam has no roller bearing, instead it is a lot of metal on metal friction/grinding, making the machine difficult to use and leading to premature wear under heavy use. . Here it is important to lubricate, clean and relubricate well with regular use. - the thread feed zones are too rough, the corners are sharp, not round. can cause filament tangles or twists - not the best way to feed filament - you need your own hanger for the line and spool so that the line pulls smoothly off the spool, the machine is set to pull the spool on its side what may cause uneven sewing due to the friction of the rotating bobbin on the machine body. heavier spools cause more drag and snagging - the included tripod stand is terrible, the machine wobbles too much. I made a wooden base out of scrap wood in a V shape to hold it, with some 2x4 pieces to elevate the body, the crank takes up a lot of room. - a design flaw in the casting near the crank main bearing, the wall of the bearing support casting is *very* thin (about 2mm) and can crack over time causing frame damage. This is a design compromise to allow for a smaller crank. It could go as well, the crank wheel is designed for manual control. However, I would seriously consider this point if I wanted to convert the drive to a belt drive or add an electric motor. I don't think this car is built well enough for every speed. - no clear marking/indication of hook position, sometimes removing the spool can accidentally remove the hook with it - alignment is a nuisance until you know where it should be. I marked mine with a file, scrawled a notch in the body and shuttle as an alignment mark. - Pain in the thread, you have to pull the thread through a roughly milled groove through the machine head, the thread gets stuck in this groove. I've tried using a pipe cleaner and it gets stuck too. I found a good solution to using a thick rope/weed cutter (a long hard piece of 2-3mm diameter plastic wire) - there is no thread lock in the bolts/screws on the small moving parts. - One of the needle moving levers works by itself, it's a small crosshead with a two-piece C-shaped clamp located on the machine head, just above the vertical shaft that drives the needle - this screw and clamp itself have been de-vibrated twice. I had to clean it up and use a small amount of thread lock on the second try. since then he has not been released. I recommend this as a first precaution, if this clip/lever becomes loose during use it may snap or break. The looper hook and bobbins are not aligned. The replacement shuttle that was sent to me is the wrong shape and finish. unpainted bare cast iron - it will rust if kept in a damp environment, in a musty cupboard, or if touched and handled frequently. Good: + rotatable head and walking foot, you can rotate the whole sewing mechanism and direction relative to the frame/arm - provides for repairs on crests. Rotate the sewing and needle, no need to rotate the project around the machine. + the bobbin mechanism is easy to wind and maintain - it takes some practice to get the bobbin properly tensioned while winding + the cheapest sewing machine that actually works. no plastic gears or rubber belts falling apart + unacceptably thick thread can be used - the thread is guided in a plane with the needle so that tension forces pull the needle up and down, not sideways. thick thread or strong plastic thread can be used without breaking the needle. + can sew heavy fabrics - lots of auxiliary material in the sewing head, no wobbling or bending. lots of steel and cast iron.