The hardest part was getting it to stick. I ended up using a sanded piece of Garolite with a PVA coating (20% white glue, rest water), using a foam brush.The plate should be 70c, and make sure your first layer is perfect with a Z adjust.After that, through a lot of experimenting, the temp I use is 240c, 35ms walls, 40ms first layer, solid infill 30ms, travel 150ms.Bridge flow at .8 with 70ms speed (still not a 100% perfect though).Cooling auto fan off, with a min fan of 60% (all 60% everywhere). Bridge fan 90% with the fan kept on always. The filament dia was around 1.72. Seems to be the hatchbox avg.For strings, I always got one long leader in random spots. I ran about 300 tests to get this. This is for a bowden setup, using a two trees bluer plus:length 5mm, retraction 24, detraction 90 (never figured out why though), 50% wipe (and no more).I think that's all the major stuff, I also used hex as my fill, the fibroid made too many strings.When its done, the item is strong, looks good. Be sure to do the E-steps to your printer first. I know its a pain, but it changed everything on how this stuff works. There was a little bit of moisture in the roll, I do hear pops now and then, but I also keep it in a dry cabinet.This stuff had me screaming when I first started with it. And no it did not stick at all to what I had. Right now I can pop it off with a razor and some effort. It won't stick to raw garolite unless maybe its at like a 100c, and that's just too hot.
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