Firstly note that these brackets will fit a number of different models so a different truck may be easier/more difficult. The mounts themselves were very easy to assemble - about 30 minutes per side. But the reason for the brackets is that there's something for the rails to screw into in bed - and that's where serious problems arise. First, on the driver's side, one of the bolts ends up in a place where it can't be seen or touched because of the fuel tank. So on the driver's side you can only connect the front rail with one bolt (in the directions and diagram there are two bolts connected to the rail) - I have the other one that goes through the rail and the bed but there is no nut on it (not as intended, but I know there's a built-in overkill feature and I'll keep an eye on it). The other screw at this end can only be tightened with a short open-end wrench. The passenger side is easier and all 4 screws are accessible, although the same screw that cannot be seen/touched from the driver's side is also not visible from the passenger side. It took about 5 minutes to start the nut as I was doing it blind and your toe room is limited and you go up so gravity is working against you. But before you can get to the track installation, you'll need to remove the exhaust heat shield that runs the length of the bed. It is held in place by 8 torx screws. They are easy to take apart and I had to drill/cut off 4 heads. I had to use a ratchet strap to move the exhaust about 4 inches to access one. And one is right above the spare wheel subframe β about 1.25 inches of clearance β not enough room to tuck in a little and screw a socket in and out. At this point I ended up using a Dremel router, chisel, hammer and swearing a lot. I originally thought I'd just take the heat shield off, but turns out there's no way to get between the frame and the bed unless you cut it open, which I didn't have the tools to do. So I reinstalled with 4 screws that came out clean. Luckily my truck is a diesel so I doubt I'll notice any extra rattles. Finally, the instructions indicate how to tighten all nuts to specific values. Unfortunately, it is not possible to fit a torque wrench to most rail mounting nuts. I installed a similar kit on a 2000 Ford F250 and had no major problems. I know designers need to work with what truck manufacturers have made and understand the complexities, but a little more specific ideas need to go into the design and instructions.
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