The body builder had about 6-12 of these on a 5" cordless drill. I, on the other hand, have 1 cordless drill, so I can't even use the two drill chucks that come with it at the same time. use pads. The detailer told me that the fluffy rag pads (white) are the roughest, and I can pretty much tell the fine pads apart by the difference in foam texture. Of course, if someone could show me a color scheme that seems to be standard, that would be of great help. Until I found this on my own. I've added some photos to show the sequence I used as well as the results. I use it with Chemical Guys Headlight Polish/UV Combo. I was relieved when Master showed me how to use the same. This is a separate review. These overlays can be used on painted surfaces as well as on plastic polycarbonate (clear or tinted hard plastic used in automotive headlight and taillight covers). surface, it will be clean, but you can still feel the bumps. To remove them, first wet sand the pitted areas with about 400 grit sandpaper. I recommend that you do a first pass with a fluffy buffing pad so you can see the pitted area more clearly, and grind only that part of the lens. After using the paper you will of course need to buff out any small scratches that remain. NOTE 2: How long does each pad need to be polished? I've found that after using the first pair of bristle pads, each subsequent foam pad doesn't take too long. I applied about 6 dots of restorer/polish to the pad, rubbed it against the lens, then polished it in about two careful passes. If the polish was baked onto the lens, I removed it with Vindex. I ended up cleaning with Vindex, then wiping with a soft cloth and polishing the final coat of paint.
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