In general I am quite satisfied with the lift. It does what it says on the tin, it lets you lift your cargo box, kayak, SUP, whatever off the ground. And much cheaper than the competition. Bought so I can raise and lower my Thule XL Cargo Box from my car. Namely in the (otherwise unused) space above the garage door when it is open. Details and what I think is important to know before buying. GOOD: 1. When properly installed, it raises the truck bed smoothly and evenly. This provides clearance above my garage door, but not much. The distance between the open door and the ceiling is about 30 inches. The largest part of it takes up the cargo space and the space for the equipment. 3. It's cheaper, a lot cheaper than a Thule roof lift. .Installation guide is terrible. Dreadful. Total joke. Please watch the video and if you don't have actual wizard level knowledge find someone who does. If you don't put the screws in the joist, the system is guaranteed to fail. 2. The straps put a little pressure on the sides of the cargo box. Other reviews show some workarounds using PVC pipes or wood blocks. Definitely worth investing a few bucks to avoid damaging the cargo box. Skimping on a lift and ruining a $750 cargo box is silly.3 The included straps are very stretchy. Even if you dress them up like a gorilla, there's still a measurable amount of room to lift. (My cargo box hangs about 4-6 inches below the square mounting blocks.) 4. Did I mention how bad the instructions are? Would it kill them if they mentioned you need a 10mm socket/wrench? The screws were sufficient for my attachment, but if you have a double layer of wall panels on your garage ceiling I would recommend replacing them with longer ones.6. It would be helpful to have information on where and how far apart the pulleys should be installed. For a cargo box, I would recommend positioning them so that they are directly over the cargo box mounting clips. If the straps are routed through another part of the cargo area, it may shift.7. Rope, straps etc are ridiculously long. However, don't cut anything until you've worked with the system for a while. DANGEROUS: 1. There is a design flaw in the system. The rope brake is EXTREMELY difficult (nearly impossible) to release unless you are pulling the rope almost perfectly straight down. When you level up. Spring. If you lift anything at all, the rope cannot be lifted vertically enough to release the lock. Attempting to pull it straight down resulted in my cargo box rolling in the straps and allowing it to fall out. There are several possible workarounds which I will discuss below.2. The supplied rope can be used universally, but is by no means heavy-duty. If you only climb a few times a year, you should be fine for a while (check every rope regularly, safety first!). However, I recommend replacing it with a more durable one as soon as possible.3. Instructions include a simple knot to secure the end of the rope. This is a recipe for disaster. The top knot tends to loosen with use. And no. Two top nodes in a row do not offer double reliability. Use a more secure locking knot. I used Ashley's Stopper knot but there are others. The internet is your friend here. SOLUTIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS: 1. If you use the lift regularly, buy a better quality rope. No, buying this rope from Home Depot is not a solution, buy good quality 750 (or higher) paracord with an abrasion resistant outer coating. If you only practice once or twice a year, the included cable will likely work until it wears out. (However, safety first. Always check your ropes regularly.) 2. Replace your straps with decent ratcheting cargo securing straps. Your major hardware stores regularly sell sets of these, a light set will be more than enough, you're not trying to get thousands of pounds. This gives you much better control over how tight the straps are on the cargo box and how much slack there is between the box and the pulley system.3. Add a third pulley to the system. Move the dual pulley/brake system to a spot where you can pull the rope straight down. (I put mine over the front bumper of my car). Then place the new pulley over the front clamps of the cargo box to lift the box straight up. This requires some "crafting" but works great. I'll add a few photos when I get a chance. I tried moving the pulleys further apart and couldn't get the box high enough to get through the open garage door. A third pulley is needed 3a. If you don't want to add a third pulley you can release the brake by climbing over the cargo box (ladder) and working the cable from there, but that defeats the purpose of the lift. 3b. Another review suggested removing the brake entirely. Possible workaround, but 100% of the work is keeping the load on the tie-down. And makes lifting/lowering the load more dangerous. However, this increases the life of the rope.4. Be sure to consider PVC pipes or wooden blocks to prevent the straps from deforming the top of the cargo box. I use high density foam insulation to keep the straps from damaging the sides of my box, but anything helps. May I recommend it? Yes, as long as you go in with your eyes open. This system saves you a lot of money, but it comes with some headaches. Don't be foolish and this system will last you a long time.
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