Review on 📺 High-Resolution ElecLab Raspberry Pi Touchscreen Monitor with Speaker Bracket - Perfect for Raspberry Pi 4B 3B+ 3B 3A+ 2B A+ B+ by Louis Turley

Unfortunately for a product designed for a DIY platform this board is wrong on many key counts making it incredibly difficult to work with . To understand why, you must first understand what a Raspberry Pi is. This is the platform people use when building their own gear. Non-standard devices usually need to fit in a project box, and it's almost impossible to find project boxes longer than 200mm. What makes this product problematic in this regard are the following design issues: 1. The power connectors are on the side. The ideal design would be for the power input connectors to come out *up* on the back rather than on one side of an edge. Why is it important? After all, it is not possible to connect a USB-C or micro-USB connector to the side when installed in any standard project box. Not enough ground clearance. This problem is exacerbated when you want to mount something from above, since you need an upward-sloping cable that blocks your two USB ports.2. The position in which the Pi is mounted means that if you really need to put something close to the panel in the project box, you're going to be in a lot of pain. Why? Because the power connection is almost at the top and the Ethernet connection of the Pi is almost at the bottom. This combined with #1 means you almost certainly can't mount anything to the side of this panel in a standard project box. (If it were closer to the ethernet end you could use at least 1 inch high standoffs and supposedly a 180 degree USB-C cable.) 3. If you don't think you can move the Pi a little with the assembly plate, you will be disappointed. Why? Because the output power connector used to power the Pi from the panel is at non-standard spacing. Literally everything in the Raspberry Pi universe uses 2.54mm pin spacing, and extension cables with that spacing would be easier to come by. Unfortunately, the manufacturer used 2mm pin spacing when making this product, and extensions with 2mm spacing are *impossible* to come by as far as I can tell. So your *only* option is to extend the USB-C connector, and you'll never reliably get it to work because the 4-pin power connector isn't rated for the foot-long USB-C flexing torque. Renewal. No prayer.4. The position of the DSI connector makes it impossible to remove the flash card from your Pi without removing the cable from the back. However, the panel itself can be powered via DSI, just without sound. So how much of a problem this is depends on what you're using it for. The manufacturer urgently needs to make the following four design changes: 1. Add a second USB-C power connector near a corner of the board that faces up when looking at the back of the panel (away from you if you ' (Looking at the front of the panel) - ideally on the same end as the existing power connectors (and far enough away from the Pi to be usable). Replace the 2x2 2mm power out socket with a 2x2 2.54- mm socket to allow users to extend the power connector.3.Add a second set of mounting tabs that keep the Pi's connectors as far away from the edge of the panel as possible so you can get items out the side of the panel and still have them into the Pi.4 Move the DSI connector as far away as it can go so a micro SD extender can be used, or move it down an inch and just put a longer, more flexible one cable ready. These small changes make a big difference in usability. Of the two panels, one behaved incorrectly about every second or third time it was powered on, as if the panel wasn't syncing properly. I sent it back and received a replacement plate.