Review on Razorri Wood Carving Sharpening Stone: Refining Precision for Woodworking Masterpieces by Brandon Plowden

I thought this would be the perfect solution for sharpening carving tools. Unfortunately, it's anything but easy. As far as I can tell at this point, all notch and V-chisel chamfering work is done on a flat stone, and that stone isn't very useful for inside curves which, like the back of the chisel, are basically after the not ground at all in the first preparation. If you sharpen the inside of your notches like they are shown in the picture, it will not end well. There must be no ground chamfer on the inside, perhaps the smallest "chamfer" created by dressing, but otherwise the inside will be ground straight along the tool line. A high-quality cut-out should already be present in the case of any internal grinding that may be necessary. Cheaper ones may require work there first, but this is best done with sandpaper over a dowel or sliding block. To sharpen a bevel cut, the concave curves in the stone must exactly match the outer bevel curve of your cut. and they just won't. If you think about geometry, you really can't. A 25° chamfer on a curved edge does not form a simple radius. The radius can hit at most one point (if it's large) or two points (if it's small). Those cone-shaped grooves you see do just that; They meet in the middle (one point) at the wide end, and then gradually ramp up the sides (two points) as they move up the cone. Tool like swinging a bevel from left to right on a flat stone. If you look on youtube all the guides show this method and none of them show a profiled stone like this. a long way from there even to get to the shooting range. Therefore, they are of very limited use to me. I can still do a rough finish on the inside of the notch, but I think it's better to shape the wood straight into the notch itself and use the sandpaper for this one-time operation. I wouldn't recommend them and wouldn't have gotten them if I could have even tried them.