Review on 🔧 NinjaTek 3DNF06117505 NinjaFlex Filament TPE 5Kg: Durable and Flexible 3D Printing Material for Creative Projects by Michael Clarke

First of all, yes I received the roll in a box, not a plastic bag for the roll itself. What everyone seems to ignore is the shrink wrap around the box and the silica gel bag inside . In some cases I could see the shrink wrap ripping, but mine was completely intact and the filament printed exactly as I would expect from dry NF. Without it, it's springy, springy, and will stick to almost anything, and the color is beautiful. This is an incredibly rich lime green that looks like it should be fluorescent (no, but it looks like it should be). Everything that follows is just a general description of how painful this wonderful thread can be. So if you already knew about this, you can stop here. If you have a bot from the last few years, you probably have PEI, Buildtak, Bare Glass or an Ultrabase type surface on your working platform. While you have three release options for at least the first one (Ultrabase is really porous and it's not easy to remove adhesive residue), I'd suggest using a harder TPU for the first layer if you prefer not to apply tape or glue. I haven't seen a single 95A TPU wand as strong as this stuff (I had to re-level after my first paint scraper nightmare dealt with it) and NF sticks well to pretty much literally anything. So my suggestion is to either insert a layer change in Slic3r PE, or manually insert an M600 in Gcode after the first layer to force a filament change if your firmware supports it (anything that uses Marlin or a derivative), or just an eye on it and stop printing manually to complete the exchange. You can also apply a single layer of PLA in a pinch, and although the thin layers of PLA will flex to some degree, it will eventually delaminate, so account for this with another layer or two of NF on the bottom of the part. I'm not kidding, this material can bind to an unprepared bed more strongly than to the layer above it. I won't set up bots for this as you know more about your personal device than me and people have spent years discussing the ins and outs of printing this particular filament on forums around the world but yes a bowden Extruder printers can print this stuff if it's even equipped to print on flexible materials, so if you have a bot with an E3D Titan or a clone of it (there are more options, but this is the most cloned lately), all you have to do is play around with the speeds and innings. I've had this print beautifully on both the Prusa i3 MK3S, BMG Extruder and the standard Anycubic i3 Mega-S. The wheelhouses looked like junk as expected, but I was able to read the text on the back of both benches from two bots. This filament can produce detailed parts, but only along horizontal axes, due to the need to disable retraction and material elasticity. Finally, this material is very hygroscopic. With a summer I'm hopefully done with, I've seen this material fill with water over the course of a few days in 80% relative humidity. If you have a dry box, this material should be placed there between the prints. If you've done the same bad thing with a food dehydrator, I've had good experiences cooking this stuff at 70C for three hours to get the water out of it. It's not as bad as nylon in that regard, so you don't have to be silly to print straight out of a dryer or dryer, but if you know it's been outside for a day or two and it's damp in there, it is probably also wet to print well. When wet, the adhesion of the layers decreases and you can dissolve the parts by hand. When it dries it will hold up like a champ if you have a good profile.