🔥 ZUPAYIPA Silicone Thermal Pad: 400mm x 210mm x 0.5mm for CPU GPU Heatsink - Heat Dissipation Solution Review

Used as a heat sink between a heated aluminum table and borosilicate glass. Heat transfer worked well but application was a nightmare causing my glass bed to warp. First, the pad sticks too well to the glass but nothing else. Second, it is very fragile. Combined with the ease of blistering, this makes straightening difficult. I tried for several hours but couldn't get all the blisters. For others, I recommend doing without a heat sink altogether, which is not required for heat transfer. If you…

It's easy to work with and you get a lot of it. But as far as I can tell, it's almost useless. Tried to use it on a RX 580 GPU, about 5 seconds after starting the GPU with 3dmark the GPU temperature reached 87C and then went out after 5 seconds because it must have been overheating. Returned to the site. Typically, the behavior I've listed above, when the GPU is running at max, takes about 60 seconds to reach 50-55C with compound, even with low-level compound. To be honest I don't know what the

Unless you cut it into much smaller pieces you have no chance of successful use. The intention was to put this on my 3D printer's build plate, but once the first layer of plastic was removed, the plate simply folded itself. Any attempt, however careful, to flatten or flatten it constantly creates a bubble, tears or both.

I bought this to attach the Ultabase glass plate to the Ender 3's print bed and the nozzles. This was a little tricky to work with, but it didn't take long to cut and fit in place. It keeps the glass stable and the top of the glass is the same temperature as the aluminum platform.

I used this to briefly "glue" the glass platform to the construction plate of my 3D printer. NO MORE CLIPS! Ender 3, Creality's official glass bed. It adheres fairly well to the build surface, doesn't move at all on long prints, transfers heat well, but the glass comes off when it needs to be cleaned or rearranged. It takes a little careful peeking, but nothing crazy. If you have a 3D printer and a GLASS bed (I doubt this will work with a bed that isn't as thick/heavy as glass) you should do it

I use this material between the glass and the hot bed of my 3D printer for even heat transfer. An aluminum bed tends to deform slightly when heated. If you use binding clips on the corners, the glass will bend with the bed and create overhangs, making alignment very difficult. I use a cut sheet that fits my hot bed, and it's sticky enough to hold the jar in place with no staples (and no halos). When it cools I just lift one side of the jar with a pick and it pops open. I would advise you to use

Works great with my 220mm x 220mm x 3mm borosilicate glass plate. There is no need to use clamps as the pad has enough friction to prevent the glass platen from moving during printing. I heated the board to about 90 degrees, removed the previous adhesive board and rubbed the bare metal clean, carefully installing the thermoplastic. Pillow and place a glass plate on top. It also took me a few seconds to try and get rid of any bubbles that popped up by gently pressing on those glass spots. There…

Short Description: Works as intended A little longer: I bought this film to improve the heat transfer between the heatspreader and the glass bed of my 3D printer. First off, glass doesn't have the highest thermal conductivity in the world, and the nanometer air gap between an aluminum heater plate and a glass plate is even worse. Silicone thermomats are one of the least efficient thermal interface materials, but they are MUCH better than air and do an excellent job of filling in microstructures