Fel Pro 3157 Gasket Material Review

I have found this gasket material to be very difficult to cut. In addition, it breaks very easily in tight places. Feels very thick and hard. If it breaks in a tight spot, your entire seal will be destroyed. So if you don't have a piece big enough to carve out a new one, you're out of luck.

I use Fel-Pro 3157 to make carburetor gaskets for old bikes that are hard to come by. My first set of gaskets was installed 14 months ago and is still in perfect condition. I will be ordering more 3157 materials to make more custom kits for my friends. Good product, I only recommend it for carburetor/fuel systems.

Thicker than the auto parts store. A gasket was made where the air filter housing attaches to the carburetor inlet of a Generac NP52G RV generator set. Also did a thermostat housing gasket on a 1990 Ford 460 EFI. Stay healthy, drive a few hundred miles. Trace the old gasket and then cut it off. No problem if you are good with sharp scissors and a razor. Delivery was slow but the quality and price was worth the wait.

I installed an old pump on my air compressor tank so I decided to open it up, clean the hole and inspect the pistons/rings. To my surprise, a set of "head" gaskets costs over $50 (two gaskets). All requirements were thus fully met. It took a little time to sketch the head and valve plate (the old gasket was destroyed when removing it), but I'm very happy with the result. I saved over $40, have spares for extra seals, and the pump works great. I used a very sharp blade and also good scissors…

Made this gasket for my Briggs engine. Side - crankcase, cover. After starting the engine, there are no leaks for 20 minutes! Just an original gasket costs about $5-8. Material savings in the sealing line for smaller future seals. Just buy yourself a leather punch and precision knife and you're good to go! To update; 28.10. - I just discovered I have a factory seal on the bottom of the box. I compared it to what I did. I prefer this stuff (the ones I made). It's not too flimsy like an OEM that…

Much better than buying Briggs/Honda/ZAMA/Walbro seals $3-5 each. Just make sure you grab some sharp, sturdy scissors and a leather belt (or sturdy) hole punch. A scalpel will probably help too; A stationery knife is also suitable, only it is bulkier. With X-acto, you're likely to break off the tip or have to repeat the cut several times. To be honest I find that it's quicker to trace it over with a pencil and punch out a few holes with a leather punch than trying to get a metal ruler and cut…