Review on Upgrade Your Kitchen with the Elkay DSE233194 Dayton Equal Double Bowl Drop-in Stainless Steel Sink by Sean Copeland

The countertop cutout or opening required for this sink is a minimum of 18 3/8" x 32 3/8" and a maximum of approximately 18 1/2" x 32 1/ 2". The instructions state that the 19x33" shell should be cut 5/16" smaller than the outside dimensions or rim size. (e.g. 5/16 + 5/16 = 0.625", 3/8 = 0.375". I think cutting 1/2" smaller in diameter than the rim would be too close to cutting an oversized countertop.) My actual one already cut out - the hole for the sink was 18 x 32 inches. I liked to use a cross blade saw and cut the laminated wood table top 3/8" wider on the length of the back and 3/8-1/2" on one side in depth/side. The blade cuts with a Japanese pull saw just behind the rounded corners. I had a straight metal ruler/straightedge close to the desired width from the backboard as a guide for trimming back and freehand to cut depth/side. A lot of dust with the old laminated wood worktop! PROS1) Matches or nearly matches my existing countertop sink hole 2) Four holes for a smaller hand held sprayer with a lighter MINUS 1) Not visible at first, my stainless steel arrived damaged as if the metalworker pressed all the holes but the sink appears to be falling left after deburring one of the faucet holes or from the drain holes. The bezel has not been sanded along with some of the holes. The top left corner and bezel were clearly severely bent and did not pull easily immediately after using the installation clips. I bent manually with pliers and tried to straighten them with clamps before final adjustment, but still had 1-2mm of travel on the top left side. Since I had already removed the old sink, I soon had to put something in. Another idea is to have extra clamps to clamp and straighten the curved edges. I had to clean up the remaining edges and holes with a knife sharpening stone. 2) Countersunk brackets, while effective, are very difficult to use! Why the manufacturer didn't include a 1/4" adapter, a special adapter for easy and quick assembly, I don't understand! I had to fix it with a constantly sliding screwdriver before the silicone sealant dried for 30 minutes! Automatic dishwasher these days! Normally wash I handle very large pots, pressure cookers/cans, large frying pans by hand, washing dishes and using a dishwasher When I hand wash I usually fill a medium sized pot with soapy water instead of filling the sink, saving water .I rarely fill sinks with water and only when washing many canned farm products.4) Sink only includes the exact number of sink brackets needed for installation.If any parts are missing or the rim of the sink is bent during manufacturing or shipping , you're done TIPS 1) For a longer cut, use a Straight edge, you can easily do shorter cuts by hand. 2) Cover everything in the kitchen with plastic if you don't want to eat dried wood dust particles stuck together with formaldehyde! 3) Use masking tape on both the cut out top of the laminate and the rim of the sink before applying the (silicone) sealant. The masking tape on the countertop also helps align the sink during final fitting. 4) If available, purchase additional sink brackets in case the sink edges are bent and need additional brackets to straighten or parts are missing during shipping.