At first I looked for a more expensive, higher percentage wood spatula. This stuff is 20% compared to the 30-40% I was looking for. Everything else was sold out. So this material was printed like a dream how cheap it is. it was wonderful. I really tried to keep it dry for many reasons, not just because the filament is hygroscopic. I didn't want the wood to be wet and crack when printed, which would result in pitting and stringing. Layer adhesion was excellent, so good that I've printed many things with only 2 or even 1 wall with my .6 nozzle. The wood filler makes it extremely strong and durable. Working with this material was amazing, almost identical to wood. Many woodworking techniques were used, albeit for different reasons. For example, start with a low grit like 80 and quickly work your way towards the layer lines. which should be set up in the cutting machine so that the wood structure merges with the layers. Then, when you've lightly sanded the entire surface, dampen it with water. After removing the top layer of plastic, the wood fibers are expanded by soaking in water. Helps with wood grain and absorbs stains. Then jump to 1000 grit and work your way up. This preserves the grain and feel of the wood. If you feel like it, soak it again and let it dry. When applying the stain, apply along the lines of layers of different thicknesses. Allow to dry completely instead of wiping as with wood. After drying, wipe lightly leaving a thin layer. Use your artistic skills to leave a smudge to create a grainy look. Then I took a water tip with lots of dye and added a few fine dots to enhance the look of the grain. Allow to dry, rub a little until you get the look you want. Leave it in a box or other place overnight to keep it dirt-free. Make sure it's nice and dry, then apply a few thin coats of clear coat. Either flat or glossy for your desired look. I used gloss on the front of an Xbox, this is my son's controller and it has withstood a lot of falls.
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