Review on Titanium Water Bottle with Titanium Lid: Lightweight and Durable Hydration Solution by Carta Gutierrez

If you are looking for a bottle to take with you into the bush I recommend this bottle for a number of reasons but the main reason is my reviews Note that the seal ring (waterproof rubber seal) is designed to be on the cap and not on the main bottle itself. This is perfect for boiling water in your bottle over a campfire. Yeah right; I've put this thing on the FIRE at least a dozen times and boiled WATER for purification, using water from a pond/stream flowing in the wilderness. And it's still fine. I have to say, although the melting point of titanium is 3034° Fahrenheit or 1668° Celsius and most wood fires make up about a third of what I've heard. I put more than one bottle inside with no water to absorb the heat so the evaporative cooling keeps it from reaching thousands of degrees Fahrenheit. So I don't expect the bottle itself to get much above the boiling point of water. Titanium does not melt at that temperature, but as far as I know it can weaken with such heating and cooling. In short, I just don't put it near a fire unless it contains enough liquid water (or frozen ice and snow) and I'm pretty sure the temp won't get past a few hundred degrees, but I'm just guessing here. Of course, the lid must be removed when cooking, preferably at a safe distance from the fire. I've never bothered to test this, but I'm sure the o-ring will melt if it gets too close to the fire. Every water bottle I've seen has been built into a plastic or rubber main bottle. As far as I can tell, this is the only non-boiling bottle. Whether it was designed on purpose or not, it still works wonders. A lot of people here seem to be complaining that this bottle was made in China or that its metallurgy isn't 100% titanium. The claim that it is not 100% titanium appears to be based on the fact that this bottle will dent if filled with water and dropped onto concrete from a height of 5 feet. (Steel bottles too, if they aren't thick-walled.) Titanium isn't adamantium, it dents the same way steel does, its intrinsic structural characteristic here is that it's lighter than steel. It's better for hiking. This bottle is not invincible and is not advertised as such. I'm not a scientist but I've done some research and as far as I can tell it has all the properties of 100% titanium without destructive testing. What I do know for sure about the metal on this bottle is that it leaves no taste. nothing in the water, even if the water is stored in it for months. It causes practically no corrosion, especially when exposed to wood fires. (I've found that steel, including stainless steel, rusts like crazy when exposed to flame and moisture over time.) Any grime can be easily washed off after cooking. There are no fading colors and logos on the surface, the "TITANIUM VARGO" label is fully intact and has survived many fires. This thing can wrinkle (like mine) if you fill it with heavy water and drop it onto a rock or hard surface from shoulder height. All of my dents (three) are very small, superficial and do not affect a US Army combat veteran like me. I read a review where a person complained about the noise the cap made when screwing the cap on and off. My girlfriend at the time (I broke up with her after she insisted on my being reinstated) also complained about the noise. I agree that the first forty times or so you screw it in and it squeaks a little, but not loud at all. I'm not sorry to say that people who are put off by a little peep need to stop being a bat-eared weak pessimist (like my ex-girlfriend). The squeak goes away after a good polish through natural use, if you will. , available with plastic plate. Vargo Titanium Water Bottle Black Cap And yes, this cap says they are BPA and BPS free. Its somewhat slim body shape helps heat water quickly and hides in many compartments of the backpack. It is 23 cm high with the lid on and 7 cm wide at the base. Is there anything to improve? Yes. IDEA #1 I think it would be better to make it more reliable for security reasons, I know it makes the whole thing heavier and probably more expensive. Maybe adding "ribs" to the body would help. But whatever you do, Vargo, keep rubber and plastic away from the main body of the bottle! IDEA #2: The lid is quite hollow and looks like an Altoids can. If the lid could have a compartment for me to store waterproof matches or just random survival gear, this bottle would stand out even more from the rest. But whatever you do, Vargo, leave the O-ring on the lid! IDEA #3. It would be interesting to make a loop on the main body of the bottle. I had to tie the neck with wire so the bottle could be taken out of the hot fire with a stick. I bet the best way can be engineered in a bottle. A small hole for a large key ring would be nice, especially if it's on both sides. I'm not entirely sure how to do this, but I think it's doable. IDEA #4: An easily removable neoprene sleeve (preferably sold separately) would be good for those looking for thermos-like performance. Not only does this keep drinks cold and won't burn your fingers, but it can also protect the bottle from denting. Different colors are a bonus for the crap who cares about the fashion of their water bottles. (I'm not one of them.) If anyone knows of an existing neoprene sleeve that works specifically with this bottle, please let me know in the comments. In conclusion, if you just want a regular bottle, this is fine. Yes, it costs a little, titanium is not cheap. But if you're looking for a bottle to pop in your survival kit or take with you on a hike, I have to recommend this bottle more than any I've seen or tasted. The bottle is used almost every day, taken on every trip, stored in hot cars, thrown into the fire countless times. Attracts attention while camping when you throw the bad guy right into the fire and people start asking where you got him from. Still runs with no complaints other than an improved survival version. water in it before cooking. Shit in your pants Germs get on the lid and possibly under the o-ring. You can re-contaminate the water when the cap is put back on the bottle, making your efforts pointless. It's certainly a good idea to keep the bottle from tipping over, but be careful if you're using rocks, bricks, or chunks of concrete, they can contain pockets of water and (though rarely) explode if they catch fire. The primary risk is eye injury from tiny pieces of brick, stone, or concrete being hurled into the wilderness at the speed of an airgun. Throw your platform rock into the hottest part of the fire, do something else remotely for about ten minutes to make sure it's safe. Figure out (channel your inner MacGyver now) how to safely get your boiling water bottle out of a blazing fire BEFORE you put the bottle in there. Bring the water to a full boil and then continue to boil for a minute. It might take longer, but you don't have to go that far. There are microbes that can exist and even thrive in boiling water (like deep-sea vents), but none of them are bad for you, I'm told. Your water is potable (as far as disease goes, not necessarily chemical) once it's cooled. If chemical contamination is a problem, be sure to check your water supply. Dead fish? No life or not enough? Find a place where wildlife thrives in and around the water. The further upstream, the safer the water, that's a fact. If you're taking water from a large river or lake, it's possible that the boats may have carried oil, naturally occurring (or man-made) toxic minerals, or carcinogenic compounds upstream. Instead, take water from small ponds, streams, and even streams. (No roadway or artificial drainage though, that's very stupid.) If there is anything, it's almost certainly in smaller amounts. Think about the difference between using someone's private house toilet and using a public public toilet. The smaller the body of water = the less likely it is that something unhealthy will happen to it upstream. You can always use a filter to remove chemicals before or after cooking. Of course there's quite a bit to buy for this purchase, you can easily make it yourself with a few materials: if you have fire you should have access to charcoal, your most important ingredient. Carbon absorbs many reactive chemicals, and those black bits of burnt wood in your fire are mostly carbon. In the military, our nuclear, biological, and chemical protective suits used carbon fabric, not plastic or lead lining, but carbon. This also includes the air filters of our gas masks, which are made of high-quality carbon. Get a large funnel or use a soda bottle and cut off the bottom inch. Use a thin cloth (cotton is fine) such as Take a handkerchief or t-shirt, for example, and place it on the bottom of the filter to allow water to pass through and keep the charcoal from sliding out of the small compartment below. A piece of paper towel for the coffee filter might also work. Place the shredded and ground charcoal (wood ash alone will do, but I've been told that crispy black chunks of burnt wood are best after you've ground them into black powder) on the cloth or paper you placed over the opening of the funnel or the bottle. Use as much as you think can work, but not too much or your water will never get to the bottom. Put a layer of silt or fine sand on the black powdered charcoal. Then approach a layer of thick-grained sand. After that, you can take it up again on the pebbles or fine gravel. The importance of this stratification isn't to stop the chemicals, but to ensure your filter can run for several minutes before you may need to restart. If you were only using charcoal, the little leaves and dirt would quickly build up on the small grains of charcoal, and it could stop working on you faster than you think. Sand and gravel trap them and allow the rest to flow to your valuable chemical neutralizing charcoal, which draws out harmful reactive chemicals longer. You may need to repeat the filter a few times as it will slow down with use depending on the solids content of your water supply. Perform a "pre-filter" only through a cotton t-shirt or similar material similar to a coffee filter. , in my personal experience, really helps whether you use a homemade or commercial water filter. Always boil water after using a "MacGyver" brand homemade filter unless you have no other choice. Carbon from a campfire does not guarantee the destruction of harmful microbes, and sand and gravel can pollute the water again. First homemade filter, last boil. It is always better to take a risk with unpurified water than to face certain death from dehydration, unless your goal is suicide, and I recommend that you seek professional medical help immediately. - Do not do that. Drink your own urine, cooked or uncooked, and poke fun at anyone who does or says it's not a bad idea. Distilled water made from your own urine is perfectly acceptable, although most people unfairly consider it odd. Remove most if not all harmful chemicals traditionally found in water, not just salt. But they are much more complex and require more hardware. (Also potentially dangerous if you accidentally craft a steam-powered hand grenade.) After that, the water is already boiled, so boiling it again in that water bottle would just be stupid. * I am not responsible for you. Just because I or someone else said it doesn't mean it's true. Although I will tell you that my advice is correct, if it bothers you, you should not blindly take it and investigate this issue yourself.