Review on Champion 7989 Spark Plug - Double Platinum Power, Carton of 1 by Joe Martin

If you are buying this spark plug to replace the originals on your Ford/Mercury/Lincoln vehicle, this is the spark plug you need. The reason is that originals tend to break INSIDE the head. On genuine Motorcraft spark plugs, the nut and electrode shell are machined separately and then pressed together. In case you haven't seen it, the electrode sleeve on this and the original connector is long. About 3 inches long. As you can see in the photo, the electrode sheath is 2/3 the length of the connector. Also, the candles are recessed into the head to reach the top wall of the cylinder. What happens over time is the shell rusts to the head and when you try to remove the plug the shell and nut come loose and you have problems. There's a special tool you can buy or rent to remove the broken part, but it's a hassle because with at least two plugs on each side of your back, you don't have much clearance. If the tool doesn't work, you'll also need to remove the head to get the broken piece out. I'm not trying to scare you, just informing you. The work is doable and worth the money you save by doing it yourself. Ford charges about $300 for a fork, do the math. I got my full job done (coils and connectors) in about 3 1/2 hours. I intentionally waited until it got colder (40 degrees) outside to minimize the rust bonding factor. I didn't break the plug. Again, this Champion connector is the right one. Be sure to apply a nickel based lubricant (Permatex 77124), available here at Revain, to the electrode sleeve to prevent rust binding when replacing in the future. Make sure you have a silicone dielectric (e.g. Permatex 22058) for the coils. Much luck!