In an unusual configuration - pressurizing the sewage system - this has shown good results, albeit with some installation issues that need to be addressed. You must follow the instructions to the letter - any deviation will be punished with leaks and poor performance. The box arrived badly dented and the plastic leg was badly bent. This happened due to the fact that the screw was bent during transportation. A quick trip to the hardware store for the correct metric screw solved the problem. As others have said, the connections leak like a sieve. The top connector (outlet) required both paste and teflon tape - a very thin coat of paste on the male and female threads, and then wrap the teflon tape around the male threads, screw it all by hand and then do an extra with a large one Turn wrench. The threads on the pump are metal and very sharp so the plastic coupling is easy to cut and if that happens it is best to get a new plastic part and start over. . Since I am using gray water, there MUST be a filter on the suction side to prevent lint, hair and sand from getting into the pump. I used a 20 micron Culligan filter. On top of the filter is a bleed valve that you push down to bleed air out of the system. The spring on it isn't strong enough to keep the valve closed when the pump is priming, so air is sucked in and the pump stops (goes into "failure" mode). This issue was resolved by tightening the exhaust valve assembly bolt to close the inlet. Then a drain cock was installed on top of the suction side to allow the air to be released and the pump to be primed. See photos. The water source is a 130 gallon reservoir that sits at the same elevation as the pump and provides a low inlet pressure (only 10 inches of water). The pump draws from the reservoir and sets a pressure of 80psi (static) and 40-60psi when the irrigation rubs. It runs about every 60 minutes or so until I find a leak in the irrigation system causing the pressure to drop! Overall: excellent value for money, hope for a long life
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