Review on 🔧 Heli-Coil 554612 M12 X 1.75 Metric Kit: Thread Repair Solution for Durable Connections by Radney Taala

Pros: Works great! Permanent solution for about $50 in installments. I calculated that it would cost around $500 to replace an oil pan at a shop (or $80-200 for an oil pan change and a lot of time if I do it myself). Cons: No instructions in the heli coil package. , I had to search the web for a heli coil catalog and then search for this model to find you needed a 31/64 inch metal drill bit and Permatex "red" threadlocker (not required but better to stop leaks to avoid tools for heli-coil tapping bits didn't fit 1/2" tap (probably should have bought an adjustable tap head (e.g. Irwin Adjustable Tap Head 2-Piece Set (3095001) for use with a ratchet). Noted: You will receive a 12mm Tap x 1.75, Thread Insertion Tool and only 6 inserts in a blister carton, not the 12 inserts (or additional box of inserts) shown in the image provided by Revain not sure, go to a body shop*** 2002 Mazda TributeParts/too ls: Heli-Coil 554612 M12 X 1.75 Metric Kit - Revain - $41 (31/64 drill bits, can of Harbor Freight Cutting Oil $16), Permatex Red Thre ad ($6), Vermont American Hand Tool (Revain $7) F107S - 12mm Qwik valve - 1.75 ($26) ---- ------------- --- ------------------------------------ ----------- --- ----- 2002 Mazda Tribute Symptom: Cleaned oil pan seat (aluminum pan, steel bolt). The screw is screwed in and only turns without tightening. Possible Cause: I suspect the gas station cut/pulled off the oil pan threads with a pneumatic tool/web research says this can happen with age as well Repair Steps (up): *Roll the truck over the ramps (or lift and use stands) and block the rear wheel. * Unscrew the bolt with the head removed and drain the oil into the oil pan. Depth using the existing sump bolt to know when to stop the drill to easily trim off the remaining old threads). * Using a 12mm x 1.75 tap, apply tape (electrical, masking, tape) back and forth to the same depth as the drill mark so I can make full turns *Use cutting oil (spray can) - I have CRC -Cutting oil purchased from Harbor Freight *When tapping a drilled hole, unscrew it every quarter turn to loosen and remove chips *This creates an "intermediate" screw thread that you thread into the replaceable threaded insert from the heli -Thread the coil package * Thread the heli-coil insert onto the insertion tool until the end of the insert engages the tip of the Vermont American Tap with no "shroud," which allowed me to hand-screw the insert almost completely, and then I taped the jaws and used a vise and for the last 3-4. * Shake pipe and then apply "red” Permatex thread lock to threads * Carefully line up tool/bit and thread clockwise into newly cut "intermediate” oil pan threads * Thread tool/bit to the end and the bit will not go just below the surface of the oil pan * Unscrew the insertion tool and allow the red to cure (20 minutes, packaging says it takes 24 hours to fully cure) * Carefully insert small needle nose pliers into the threaded hole and bend the tab back and forth until it breaks at the notch * Wipe the spot with a rag and that's it, or. *Carefully unscrew the Qwik-Valve F107S (12mm - 1.75) and tighten with a 7/16" open-end wrench (or crescent wrench) <- this adapter is not needed, but web reviews have it as a great alternative for any bolting rated in the oil pan bolt costs around $26 once.