I first printed some details with a CR-10S in a special case. Hot end and bed in stock. I can say the hotend has a hard time printing this due to the amount of staining, warping and sometimes delamination. However, surprisingly I was able to get working parts that were cleaned well. Without a modified CR-10 hotend, you are at the limit of the machine's ability to print this material. I have found that the first layer peels off easily when printing on this machine at temperatures below 260C. I set the bed to 65°C to minimize warping. Once the prints were ready, I found that the best way to minimize warping was to cover them with a metal container and let them cool completely before removing them. Then I printed the same parts on Raise3d Pro2. I've had good results with a nozzle temperature of 250°C and a bed temperature of 50°C. I had to increase the retraction to about 4.2mm and use a layer of PVA glue. The details came out very nicely, with very minimal surface imperfections and zero delamination. I could probably get them almost perfect if I played with the settings more, but otherwise this stuff was pretty easy to work with. I also annealed them as recommended, but my oven can only get up to 170F. They did not deform at this temperature. I dunked them in salt to evenly distribute the heat. Overall this material was quite easy to work with and I will definitely be buying more.
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