Review on 🔩 BlueSunshine 15mm Crank Bolts for Head by Alex Jones

These screws are well made and have a FLAT base and no "bulge" so they don't pull the tapered tip into the pedal arm and expand it to form a bell and require a puller to tighten the arm remove. If your cone "bottoms out" when using these flat head screws and the pedal arm is still loose, then either the cone is bent or the pedal arm has grown. It can get tight at times, but soon your new propeller will loosen, spin and you'll be (again) holding the pedal lever on a desert road. The gun is usually not to blame. Resist the temptation to use a washer, washer or lock, you can do more damage by scratching the pedal arm and/or pinching the cone on the washer. Remember (or learn) that the bolt works because it is being stretched. It is under tension and its threads do not slip because intermolecular forces create a connection. Because of this, initial friction is greater than sliding friction and we can create the correct tension by measuring the torque on a clean, well-lubricated bolt. If a well-made bolt (or bolt) is properly tightened and then loosened, then either the bolt itself has been stressed (stretched) beyond its elastic limit, or one or more parts held together have buckled and released the proper tension. Because of this, it's a good idea to check ALL your fasteners regularly! Suddenly dropping necessary items from the bike will not make the ride fun! On a bike, bolts that go missing are a sign that the parts held together need to be replaced. Unless you bought an enemy or poltergeist that carries an 8mm hex wrench, you should seriously consider diagnosis and timely replacement; In the meantime, take an 8mm folding tool and a spare bolt or two with you when you ride. However, if you are in a bind or planning to upgrade your vehicle anyway, read on. The TEMPORARY solution is to file the cone down a mm or two and then thread the NEW screw all the way in without the pedal. pass on. If the screw is tight on the shortened tip of the cone, the threaded hole in the cone is long enough to pull the cone further into the pedal arm and create a tighter fit - for a while. If the screw doesn't fit, you'll need to trim the screw (with a file, grinder, whatever, but make sure the tip is smooth) until it fits. Any of these "fixes" will work (again, for a while), but you need to address the "soft" aspect of either your cone or your pedal arm, or both. If your cone is defective, it's probably best to simply replace the entire bottom end with a heavier block that fits your pedal arms. Sometimes the bottom ends don't come with screws. No problem, rest assured because with half a dozen quality screws you can afford to lose, replace and/or ruin some of them and still have a spare. And if your pedal arms need to be replaced, they may not come with screws either. The same goes for the no-bunny bit. I think it covers it.