Review on 🚛 40W Dual Color LED Pod Lights: Enhance Driving Safety in Fog with Amber/Yellow and White Light | Perfect for Motorcycle, Truck, Car, ATV, Boat, Tractor by Vincent Pavelko

TL;DR: These lamps have the POTENTIAL to be really good! However, you have a faulty LED driver which, if it inevitably fails, will cause the yellow beam to light up no matter which wire you apply +12V to. Trust me, this happened on both the units originally ordered and the two replacement units that were shipped to me. Great customer service, terrible product. I'm sorry but stay away. Full review and problem diagnosis (if you really want to know): Installed them on my 2009 Ford Focus with yellow bars wired as fog lights and white bars wired to my headlights. It was very cool at first because the white beam glows over the yellow. The yellow beam completely floods the road with light, and the white beam more than doubles the brightness of my distant beams (55W HID, for that matter) and beams far down the road. The beam pattern is EXCELLENT. However, they WERE very impressive lights. Only about 10 minutes drive. Then they got stuck in yellow mode. So it doesn't matter anymore whether I have my fog lights or high beam on, I only see yellow light, not white. I contacted the seller and their customer service rep was quick to apologize and sent a new pair. Three days later I received a replacement, installed it and tried it out. That's what happened. Except that it's annoying. I am currently in the process of getting a refund and will spend the money elsewhere. The yellow lights still work, so I might use them for another project. However, they do not work properly (double jet) so they are separated from the machine. One more thing. I have experience with electronics and was confused as to why the white circuit became another yellow circuit. Removed one of the lightbulbs on the workbench and found the problem. You might think that the two +12V inputs are separate circuits (for white and yellow bars) and share a common ground. However, the designers have done something really great and unnecessary. To prevent the user from activating the yellow and white circuits at the same time (which I really wish they had), they employ a weird type of LED driver chip (Deep-Pool NDP3435KC step-down/buck style). Blackboard. Oddly enough, it's actually designed so that both +12V inputs are on the same circuit that supplies voltage to both the white and yellow LED chips all the time! GND is what is shared on the driver IC which delegates it to one of the two MOSFETs on the board and grounds (and therefore lights up) EITHER the white or yellow nets, but not both. The strangest thing is: the circuit is yellow by default. This means that without a working driver IC (which is more of a "switch" than a driver) the amber color will light up whatever +12V input you choose. The LED driver is responsible for detecting when the white light wire is being used and switching GND to the white circuit. When it fails (which all four of me did), GND doesn't switch from amber to white, and applying power to the white LED wire still results in amber light being emitted. That doesn't mean that the manufacturer won't one day improve the design or the LED driver and solve the problem. However, as of August 26, 2021 I have received two pairs of identically faulty lamps and I can guarantee you that yours will end up being exactly the same. The manufacturer must seriously re-evaluate the electrical architecture of these lamps before they can be operated for more than 10 minutes. end of discourse. Hope that helps. If so, be sure to click the Helpful button, I'd appreciate it!