Review on Enermax Aquafusion 120: High-Performance Addressable RGB AIO Liquid Cooler - 120mm Radiator, Single 120mm ARGB PWM Fan - For Intel & AMD Ryzen - 5 Year Warranty by Jeremiah Small

Giagbyte Aorus Pro Wifi ITX Board. Installing AMD R5 3600. Listen folks, this machine is as good as it gets. The highest quality. Original review and updates on that below -------- I've texted these poor guys about 5 times and each time they've responded with great explanations and they're just really good! I just installed it and ran it all day. So far everything looks perfect. My ITX board has a CPU fan header, a system fan header (both 4-pin) and two RGB headers. One of the RGB risers is static RGB (non-CPU addressable, at 12V so I don't know what Gigabyte thought about that) and a DLED addressable RGB riser on the board. Installation: If you've done this before, it's intuitive, but I've never had it. I was a little frustrated trying to figure out how to connect the DLED block and fans together. The manual says it's 5V and since my CPU RGB header is non-addressable and 12V, I connected everything to the DLED 5V header on the board using the splitter that came with it. (Edit: I've moved most of my DLED lighting to a 5A SATA powered ARGB hub. I only use the motherboard as a controller for this aspect of the lighting.) The process is as follows: Ignore the instructions for the DLED block connection if you don't have more than one DLED riser. They say to "plug the sync cable into the device and then into the 5V DLED connector on the MB". OK, then what? Now I don't have a fan header. You probably wrote the manual as if all MBs had more than one DLED riser. Anyway, they included an RGB splitter cable which I connected to the only DLED riser I have, then connected a DLED box to it and the fans to the other end of the Y-cable. Like I said, if you've ever done this, no wonder. In my case I could only connect it one way, so it is. They also include a PWM Y-cable to power the fan, but then again I only have two fan risers, both 4-pin. I have tons of fan splitters so I just double plugged the cable and plugged in the case fans and heatsink fans. I have a fan hub that I will use after making sure all my parts work (this is a 100% new build). A: I didn't have to remove the circuit board that was already installed. Removing the board isn't difficult, but it was actually easier to leave it. The mounting bracket has friction washers that keep it in place. The standoffs on top of the board are also friction glides and help hold the backplate in place while you install the block. Again, the instructions didn't go into detail as to which direction the backplate should be mounted, but I figured it out. . (Enermax, it would be nice to include a larger image showing which direction to mount the backplate, although I'm pretty sure you won't be able to mount the water block if you mount it wrong.) Not entirely intuitive, since AMD places the back on protrusions that prevent the plate from lying flat on the back of the motherboard. This is difficult to explain in writing. Anyway, I found his picture with the help of a magnifying glass and found that the back panel is attached with "bulges" downwards. Also, if you are building a sealed case, make sure to connect the DLED cable to the water block before installing it on the CPU. Otherwise you will have to remove the water block just to connect the DLED cable. NOTES: (1) WATER BLOCK LABELING: I was going to install the hoses on the opposite side of the RAM, but the label would be upside down. Revine's answers didn't help. One said you can't rotate it, the other said you can by removing the 4 small screws on the top of the block. EDIT: Enemax also said you can twist it, but be very careful when screwing it in so you don't break the cover. (2) PUMP SPEED CONTROL: I was disappointed that the water block comes with a 3 pin connector meaning there is no PWM pump speed control, but this may be due to the electrical requirements with PWM. Three-pin CPU fans can still be controlled via the voltage settings in the BIOS. Most modern BIOSes just change it automatically. I don't like running anything at full speed unnecessarily, including fans. Anyway, I asked if I could control the speed of the pump and Enermax replied that slowing down the pump in the BIOS was not a problem. I've tried both PWM and voltage control. The pump made protesting noises when using PWM, so I used a voltage regulator and cranked the pump up to 220 rpm quietly. With a maximum pump speed of 3200 rpm in the fully open position, you can hear a slight hum in a quiet room. It's not loud, but it can be a little annoying in a quiet room. (In my setup, the pump is 5 feet from my ears.) While gaming or listening to music, etc., you won't hear the pump at full speed. But why run it at full blast when you don't need it? FAN NOISE: I can't hear any fan noise even at the maximum speed of 2000 rpm. What I hear is air whistle. The fan itself is very, very quiet. The fans have a maximum speed of 2000 rpm. Above 1000 rpm you start to hear the air they move pretty well. At 2000rpm you can definitely hear the air movement! Extremely high pressure fans are wide open, so that's to be expected from ANY fan. These kids push A LOT of air. I can feel air blowing through the radiator 4 inches from it. You can control the fan speed with your BIOS. Below 1000 rpm they practically switch off. I used them in an open case due to system fire. The panels on the case will likely cover them adequately too, unless you're sitting in a very quiet room (I put the panels on, but WFO, you can still hear the air pretty well). EDIT: Air can also be heard at 60% RPM. Anything at 1000 rpm and below is pretty good. Mine currently runs at a minimum of 560 rpm and they are almost silent. From 2 feet away in a quiet room I can't hear them at all. Again, you don't hear the sound of the blades. I only hear the rush of the air. The fans themselves are very quiet. These are very good fans. They just push enough air that you can hear the air rushing through the blades and heatsink. At 1000 RPM, they push as much air as many other 1500 RPM 120mm fans. CPU TEMPERATURE : EDIT: Running P95 with the highest heat settings, I ran 81C but only ran for about 5 minutes. At HARDOCP people said that the new P95 would work with any setting and that my temperatures are really good. I never went above 66C when running Cinebench 20. DLED: The water block and fans have been perfectly synchronized with the DLED motherboard via the BIOS fusion settings. There are no problems with the software control. EDIT: 3/25/2020 When the LEDs are rotated about 30%, the middle letters of the block logo are darkened compared to the outer letter. I contacted Enermax about this. (Note: you can only see this if you dim the LEDs to the minimum.) As usual, the company contacted me less than 24 hours later and said it was fine. They even added photos of how they tested it and even took off the top logo and took a picture showing how the LEDs are positioned inside the block and showing that they are at each end where the logo is goes. The photo they took looks the same as mine, so it's fine. The company's excellent customer service. When the LEDs are running at 50% or more, it is imperceptible. A NOTICE. This company is really good at customer service. I really appreciate it and will definitely buy their products in the future. I wish they had 240mm fans themselves! I recommend controlling the pump speed at 2200 using the voltage control in your BIOS. Use your BIOS or another fan. Reduce the speed of the AIO fans to 550 RPM and leave them there until needed to start cooling. Then just increase the fan speed as needed. On a typical computing day, you don't even hear the air they're moving at 500-600 RPM. I have all the fans in the case and the Enermax fans run at around 550rpm and my rig is completely silent. My setup idles at 35-40C. Sure if I turn on the fans at 900RPM I can idle around 33-35, but why? 40°C is nothing. Conclusion: PROS - Great cooling potential. - The best fans with LED lighting. The bearings and fan blades are absolutely silent. Good quality fans. Maybe the best or almost the most beautiful water block? Supplied completely white, including hoses. Incredible customer support. , above 1000 rpm you can hear air noise, but it is air noise, not a fan. -- The high-pitched iconic howl of the pump at maximum RPM (3200) isn't loud, but it's annoying in a very quiet room. Once the fans are running at full speed, you won't hear anything inside your case - lol. Look, if you've got some music and are playing games or talking on Discord, you won't hear the pump whine at all, even when it's fully open. -- Not available in 280mm. CONCLUSION Having owned this monoblock for a year I am impressed and love it. Great product from ENERMAX! Edit: 02/21/2021 no problems, works well and quietly, the computer works 18 hours a day.