Review on 🔧 Heli-Coil 554612 M12 X 1.75 Metric Kit: Thread Repair Solution for Durable Connections by Maurice Strawther

Pros: Works great! Permanent solution for about $50 in installments. I calculated that it would cost about $500 to replace an oil pan at a shop (or $80-200 for an oil pan change and a lot of time if I do it myself). Cons: There are no instructions in the heli coil packaging. , I had to search the web for a heli coil catalog and then search for this model to find you needed a 31/64 inch metal drill bit and Permatex "red" threadlocker (not required but better to stop leaks to avoid tools for heli-coil tapping bits didn't fit 1/2" tap (probably should have bought an adjustable tap head (e.g. 2-piece set of Irwin Adjustable Tap Head (3095001) for use with a ratchet). Noted: You will receive a 12mm Tap x 1.75, Thread Insertion Tool and only 6 inserts in a blister carton, not the 12 inserts (or additional box of inserts) shown in the image provided by Revain.* If you unsure, go to a body shop*** 2002 Mazda TributeParts/too ls: Heli-Coil 554612 M12 X 1.75 Metric Kit - Revain - $41 (31/64 drill bits, can use Harbor Freight Cutting Oil $16) , Permatex Red Th read ($6), Vermont American Hand Tool (Revain $7) F107S - 12mm Qwik valve - 1.75 ($26) ------ ----------- --- ----------------------------------- ------------------------ ---- ---- 2002 Mazda Tribute Symptom: Cleaned oil pan seat (aluminum pan, steel bolt). The screw is screwed in and only turns without tightening. Possible Cause: I suspect the shop cut/removed the oil pan threads with a pneumatic tool / internet research says this can also happen with age Repair Steps (high): * Roll truck over ramps (or use jack & stand) and block the rear wheel. * Unscrew the bolt with the head removed and drain the oil into the oil pan. Depth using the existing sump bolt to know when to stop the drill to easily trim off the remaining old threads). * Using a 12mm x 1.75 tap, apply tape (electrical, masking, tape) back and forth to the same depth as the drill mark so I can make full turns * Use cutting oil (spray can) - I have CRC -Cutting oil purchased from Harbor Freight *When threading a drill hole, unscrew every quarter turn to loosen and remove chips *This creates an "intermediate" spiral thread that you thread into the replaceable threaded insert from the heli-coil package * Screw in the heli-coil bit onto the insert tool until the end of the bit engages the tip of the Vermont American Tap Tool with no "shroud" which allowed me to screw the bit in almost completely by hand, and then I have the sponges with lines sealed toys and used the vise for the last 3-4. * Shake pipe and then apply Permatex "red" thread lock to the threads * Carefully line up the tool/bit and screw clockwise into the newly cut oil pan thread "intermediate thread" * Continue threading the tool/bit until the end of the bit does not snap screw directly under the surface of the oil pan * Unscrew the screw-in tool and let it harden red (20 minutes, according to the packaging it takes 24 hours to fully harden) * Carefully insert small needle-nosed pliers into the threaded hole and bend the tab back and forth until it breaks at the recess * Wipe the spot with a rag and you're done, or *Gently unscrew the Qwik F107S (12mm - 1.75) Valve and tighten with a 7/16" (or crescent) wrench < - this adapter is not needed, but web reviews have rated it as a great alternative to any bolt in the oil pan bolt once - it costs about $26.